08 Dec 2019  |   05:41am IST

WHEN A RESTAURANT BECAME A THERAPY AGAINST ALCOHOLISM

 

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day breaks in the village of Betalbatim, with early sunrays washing away the shadows of the night. There is a grammar to village sounds. Consistent and earthy, they set the rhythm of the day, infused with normalcy of a daily humdrum.

While roads to the beach have visages of tourism, home stays, small hotels and restaurants, the old churches (Benaulim has two by the way) and the back roads, only locals know, keep the essence of village-hood intact. While all of Goa is pristine, because nature ordains it to be, Betalbatim – in fact many of Salcette’s interior villages, does well by just being “untampered”

In the genteel morning cacophony of the village, decibel levels go up ever so slowly till it reaches a crescendo at the tinto, after the fish has been bought and the headlines in Herald have been scanned and the first “discussions” on its news done and dusted.

It is in this environment that Fransisco Fernandes wakes up, emerges from his home and into the outer portion which is his restaurant and looks at the Cross on the road. He has much to pray for and much to thank. After a silent bow and a prayer he sets off for the fish market, while his mother, Anunceasao, starts working on the spices. To many who live in Salcette, this is a very common occurrence in homes which are also restaurants. The father or son sets out, while the mother, and at times the daughter or daughter in-law get to work on the most important part of their daily lives- prepare the spices for the day, both for home and the restaurant.

There is no magic realism here. This is life. Across most family run restaurants in coastal Salcete, there is a natural osmosis between the home and the restaurant with private and public areas blurring constantly. And this is an extension of village life as it were, where homes were never locked, people came in and out of homes and kitchens and the dining table always had people and food was never short. It is this spirit which permeates in many traditional eating places.

So Francisco’s little restaurant on the Benaulim-Colva road at Betalbatim, called ‘Little Banana’, is just that. Francisco manages, and mae Anunceasao and wife Vincy do the back end work. While discovering places like Little Banana and the folks who create such masterpieces, is the mission of this column, what really brings us to these places again and again are the stories of the lives of these creators. And many of them are inspirational as well as moving.

His story is now being told with his permission, for he sees it as a story of his transformation. Yours truly asked him repeatedly if this aspect of his life should or could be shared and he said “If my story prevents a single boy from the village from following my path, I will be happy”.

Fransisco, like many of his silk set sail to make a living. And while he worked and earned, he also took to drinking. And this wasn’t casual drinking. When he returned to Goa’s shores, he had a very healthy bank balance and an unhealthy lifestyle. But money attracts followers and hangers on who were his drinking and party companions. Massive bills in bars and restaurants were settled by Fransisco, is those days of alcohol filled hedonism. Finally the tap began to run dry and to meet hi s needs, he turned to his family who he troubled and caused great grief to. Realising that his life and finances were going downhill, he helped himsel f. He stopped drinking and going out, prayer became a part of his life and he decided to start a restaurant, focusing energies on one of his core skills-cooking and looking after people. Little Banana, a modest outdoor setting, wasn’t just a restaurant. It became his therapy.

On an afternoon this week, a friend from the village and yours truly, heard his narrative and ate his food. We didn’t actually have a meal but snacked on his silver fish- vellio and his fried prawns. But it has been witnessed in these parts that folks, many foreigner- locals, swear by Francisco’s curry and his pork dishes. The aadmas, roast and amsol vie with his beef dishes washed down with soft drinks and kokum juice perhaps. But there is no alcohol, either at the tables, or at Francisco’s home. All he does is keep a bottle of chilled cola when he eats, to avoid other urges. And importantly, his patrons support him.

He is not just a local boy who has returned to work in the village, he has chosen to reshape his life from slipping into disaster.

We left, with the obvious intent to go back for a full meal.

Next stop, as yours truly does often these days- discover an above average coffee place or a restaurant that does good coffee, was Chai Khana. At the junction where the road turns to Nanu resorts, on the Colva- Benaulim road, immediately after the Betalbatim Church crossing, is Chai Khana, run by Cyril Henriques, whose family were the original gaonkars of Mormugao. He owns the popular fish joint – Fishka opposite th e Alila Diwa hotel, and could easily pass of as a scientist who lives in a lab. Short with a flowing beard and professorial countenance, Cyril not only does great coffee but very good American pancakes and everything in between. A trip is surely due soon to have his breakfast spread.

As this wanderer pulled back, and drove through roads one regularly traversed through Majorda, Utorda, Arrosim and Cansaulim, every milestone seemed to remind one of countless such stories of inspiration, in this South Goa countryside.