10 Feb 2024  |   05:18am IST

Reminiscences of the Sabado Gordo celebrations in Goa

The introduction of the Carnival or ‘Carnaval’ in Goa is documented, but its exact origin remains somewhat obscure. References to Carnaval celebrations in Goa are commonly found in 19th-century government bulletins and some private periodicals. The festivities included parades, dances, colourful costumes and music, thereby lending an atmosphere of gaiety and amusement

Sharmila Pais

An annual visit to Panjim for people from the neighbouring villages, on the day of the ‘Sabado Gordo’ of the Carnival was a culturally enriching experience. The popular use of the word Carnaval is in consistency with the phonetics of the Portuguese language and its influence in Goa. A trip by bus to witness the elaborate ‘Carnaval’ parade during the late 1980s was a much-anticipated occasion. The colourful parades, vibrant costumes of dancers and pot-abellied men on bicycles navigating their way across the crowded streets of Panjim brought cheer and laughter on people’s faces. Likewise, masked men with concealed identities formed a quintessential feature of the parade. The experiences of the Sabado Gordo remained ingrained in memory for a long time.

The spirit of the Saturnalia Festival in ancient Rome, with its emphasis on revelry and casting aside societal norms laid the groundwork for varied Carnival traditions across the world. Merry-making and overindulgence accompanied this event. The Roman tradition was practiced in many countries of Europe although it was not recognised in any liturgical traditions of the Church.

The Latin phrase, Latin carnem levare or carnelevarium, denotes the abstinence of meat after the onset of the Lenten Season to observe penitence and suffering characteristic of this period. The introduction of the Carnival or ‘Carnaval’ in Goa is documented, but its exact origin remains somewhat obscure. References to Carnaval celebrations in Goa are commonly found in 19th-century government bulletins and some private periodicals. The festivities included parades, dances, colourful costumes and music, thereby lending an atmosphere of gaiety and amusement. The Portuguese Government issued regulations time and again aimed at ensuring decorum and public safety during the Carnival celebrations.

An interesting reference to the Sabado Gordo (in 1866) found in the A India Portugueza, a 19th-century periodical provides a historical glimpse of the Carnival celebrations in Goa during the Portuguese regime. The newspaper description indicates that ‘the Carnaval was a long-standing tradition in Goa. Further, the celebrations were expressed as ‘marvelous’ revealing that the festivities were grand and amazing. The figurative expression ‘Carnaval Gordo’ used in the feature vividly describes the spirited nature and abundance associated with Fat Saturday. A India Portugueza added a poetic flair and human characteristics to the Carnaval by stating that it would soon be fleeing in terror with the onset of the Lent. It was an indication that the carefree spirit of the festivities would rapidly make way for a more restrained and contemplative period of the solemn Lenten season.

Several regulatory measures were issued by the government during the Carnival celebrations. It pronounced the closure of certain libraries in Goa, including that of the Rachol Seminary thereby indicating its impact on society. Stern guidelines were issued time and again to regulate Carnival festivities in the territory. In 1873, the Administrator of the Ilhas (Tiswadi) pronounced the orders of the Governor-General of India, Joaquim José de Macedo Couto for the smooth celebration of the Carnaval. Interestingly, fanciful clothing was permitted during the occasion, but masked costumes were prohibited in the Old and New Conquests of Goa. Such prohibitory orders reflect the concern of the government about the potential mischief and apprehensions to public safety in society. Masks of different sizes and shapes were associated with the Carnaval. But the anonymity associated with it probably allowed merrymakers to indulge in mischief without being recognised. Village magistrates in Goa were also involved in enforcing the regulations of the colonial government. The emphasis on vigilance suggests the potential challenges that could arise during the celebrations. And rightly enough, some uneventful incidents, brawls and drunken episodes were also reported in different parts of Goa during the celebration. The costume soiree was organised during the Carnaval by the Steering Committee of Clube de Nova Goa in Panjim, and a well-equipped restaurant served as a fitting end to the Carnaval celebration in the capital for a long time.

Regulatory measures continued to be issued in the 20th century by the colonial government. After 1961, the tradition of the Sabado Gordo was sustained with equal funfair. Carnival celebrations attracted hundreds of tourists from different parts of the country to visit the Union Territory. Over time, some ‘hippies’ also began to participate in the parade in the streets of Panjim, Margao and Mapusa and these in turn, attracted many domestic voyeurs from across the country. The Goan Carnaval has evolved over time to accommodate diverse perspectives of the changing times. Carnival floats have also encouraged green practices by encouraging eco-friendly practices, recycling initiatives and raising awareness about environmental preservation. Yet, the nostalgic memories of the Sabado Gordo hold a special place among many Goemkars.

(Sharmila Pais is an Associate Professor in History at St Xavier’s College, Mapusa, and the 

co-author of ‘The Quest for Goa’)