25 Nov 2020  |   03:49am IST

THE GOAN SPIRIT WILL GET DAMPENED IF THE ‘FENI’ LINE IS CROSSED

The excise department has decided to tweak the rules and regulations to do away with the process of auctioning cashew zones have caught the local industry by surprise. Café spoke to the major players in the market for their view. A move mooted by the Excise department to tweak rules and regulations to do away with auctioning cashew zones has prompted the feni distilling local industry to rise in protest fearing disruption this upcoming 2020-21 season. This has to be taken mote of since feninis not just another drink. It’s a part of Goan ethos.
THE GOAN SPIRIT WILL GET DAMPENED IF THE ‘FENI’ LINE IS CROSSED

Team Cafe

Feni is to Goa what romance

is to Paris. It is a very passionate relationship built over a couple of centuries. Feni was consumed and talked about all over the state and by its diaspora settled all over the world. The systems were in place and the production, its sale and consumption was going on quite smoothly. Yes, there were issues that cropped up from time to time like it would in any business. But now, a move pushed by the Excise department could cause a lot of hurt and anguish smog those who produce market and sell cashew feni.

They would like to tweak the rules and regulations and do away with auctioning cashew zones which could disrupt the business. Hansel Vaz, Secretary of the Goa Cashew Feni Distillers and Bottlers Association and owner of a popular brand said Feni was the last indigenous spirit to have a structure and he empahised it was a culture they wanted to keep alive.

He said “We consider ourselves custodians of the spirit. You have to understand we have done a lot of work. Maharashtra is now open to us as a market. The taxes are very high but the market is ripe for the picking. We have to be very cautious; we have experiences to learn from other parts of India”. He said he did not agree with the campaign of vilification against the Excise department. The Iaw giving the industry the benefit of excise was always beneficial to the industry. The new rules he said were ok but the underlying deviousness which was possible was what was making them nervous. The system which was followed did not allow for monopoly but these changes could alter that situation.

Mac Vaz Founder President, Cashew Fenny Distillers and Bottlers Association and a player in the business felt in policy making it was always important to see distant fallouts.

He said that this suggested policy change must have had a good intentions but it would have unfathomable consequences that would cripple the grass root farmer and distiller. He said “I would draw a parallel with the apprehensions that have stirred up the Punjab farmers with the 3 farm bills. Like Dr Kuriens Amul movement the focus should be on keeping the grassroots motivated; in this case it is the Kazkar and Bhattikar.”

Donovan Vaz restaurateur and player in the Feni business said this move just did not make sense. He said “They are trying to change what tradition was. A lot of farmers will be out of business. The smaller guys who were distillers will disappear. Everybody likes to drink cashew juice in April and they would usually go over to the local guy and have a drink. Now with these changes people will have to go and stand outside a factory in Verna or Pilerne to have some juice. This has not been thought through. The fruits will rot if it is transported from one place to another. They have to take everybody into account. You have to also understand Feni has a GI status. That means certain rules and regulations. The government is sidelining the geographical index. In France there are vineyards where they distill it there. This plan to take it from different places and place it all in one place will mean the subtle differences that are unique to each place. From the north to the south, it is so different”. He said this was a destruction of tradition and heritage of a place.

Another senior player in the market who did not want to be named said this proposal would leave a lot of people without a job. The government he said could earn very good revenue by removing the business of tenders which took a lot of time. They could stick to auction one and auction two. They would reduce the time considerably. He however felt this could be an attempt by a big player to enter the market and push out the small players and even more worryingly an attempt to take land in the inlands especially in places like Pernem where several of the cashew zones were located.

One can only hope, this assault on the culture and tradition of Goa is repulsed. Feni is after all in the DNA of each Goan.

IDhar UDHAR

Idhar Udhar