THURSDAY, MAY 02, 2024
The Saptakoteshwar Temple at Narve, Bicholim has been restored, amid a lot of media coverage of the good work done. The focus seems to be on the fact that the temples destroyed by the Portuguese need to be repaired. It is undoubtedly a good initiative of the Government and the people are looking forward to the fact that this people’s government will also restore the old churches and mosques with equal enthusiasm as the money used is the tax payer’s money, irrespective of religious affiliations.
A relatively unknown fact is that prior to this, the Fundação Oriente had financed the restoration of this temple. This organisation is financed by the Portuguese and extends scholarships to scholars for research in Portugal and Goa and deals not only with academics but also the study of arts and crafts besides conducting various Indo-Portuguese socio-cultural activities. The Fundação Oriente’s work shows that the preservation of ‘history and culture is beyond religion’.
It is also hoped that the restored temple will be visited by tourists from India and abroad and this has brought centre stage the case of the need of heritage tourism in Goa. This ancient land was termed as the land beyond (Aparant) during the time of Buddha. There is reference to a golden land beyond (Sunaparanta), a jewel in the Portuguese crown. Other laudatory appellations include “Golden Goa’ and the ‘Rome of the East’.
Drugs, prostitution and massage parlours – are at present the pillars that hold the tourism architecture of the State. Goa is a tiny State steeped in history, culture and natural beauty. Goa is also rich in cultural expressions, through art forms, festivals and ritualistic performances. As history shows it was ruled by different dynasties like the Satvahanas, Bhojas, Shilharas, Konkan Mauryas and the Kadambas. Each of these dynasties along with the Portuguese that ruled thereafter have left their imprints on the cultural patterns of Goa.
The neighbouring states of Goa, Karnataka and Maharashtra have marketed their heritage. Very well. Today Hampi, Ajanta, Ellora and Elephanta are on the world map of historical sites. In Hyderabad, tourists pay even to see cemeteries – like the seven majestic tombs of the Qutub Shahi dynasty which inspired Sarojini Naidu to compose poetry. Portugal showcases its culture in the form of building countless museums e.g. costumes, carriages, azulejos marine activities besides old artefacts.
However in Goa today, tourists are permitted to stamp on petroglyphs or rock engravings free of charge, enter temples, churches and mosques and roam around freely in their tourist apparels, with scant respect for religious sentiments. There are private initiatives that organise the Madhei trail, or trek to the Chorla ghats, or the waterfalls in Neturlim and Canacona. In the past few years, ‘Monsoon treks’ have catered to the spirit of adventure among the locals. ‘Soul Travelling’ is one of the pioneers in propagating hinterland tourism. Goa therefore has potential for monsoon and pilgrim tourism.
Almost unknown to the outside world is the fact that Goa has a number of caves of very high tourist value. The Buddhist cave at Rivona, Aravallem caves in Bicholim, Datta Cave in Netravali, Dudha Ped or Paika Ped in Duhal, Calim in Sanguem, Pandava cave in Nune, other caves in Khandepar, Kundai, Shigao and Chicalim are unheard of even by Goans.
The petroglyphs (rock carvings) of Usgalimal – Pansaimal are spread over 500 square meters along the rock banks of the Kushavati river. These carvings are evidence of the upper Palaeolithic age which starts from around 1, 00,000 B.C. to 10,000 B.C. A lone guard of the State Archaeological Department supervises this site, which is almost inaccessible by road to the general public. Most petroglyphs are of animals. Present is a triskelion, a carving of a circular shaped labyrinth of seven concentric circles.
Approximately five kms away from this site is the Khajur carving. Present here is the Dudafatar, a quadrangular slab of granite with carvings of animals. Nearby is a circular arrangement of polished stones which exist from times immemorial. Another almost unknown historic spot is the petroglyph of the Mother Goddess, transplanted by the Archaeological Department from the now submerged site at Kurdi to the laterite hill at Verna.
In Lisbon, there are tours conducted of the graves of their important historical personalities like Salazar, historians, artists buried in the Cemetério Prazeres. Similarly in the West Minister Abbey in London where the Royal family coronations, marriages as well as funerals are held, one can opt for a headset with a recorded voice, with guidance to pay respects to the graves of the great British poets like Lord Byron and William Shakespeare. This is how the British showcase their history!
Sacred groves are the hidden treasures of Goa, found in deep forests dedicated to the spirits. In Quepem, under the charge of the local Velip community, is the Gadgado Pann in Barcem, Siddha Pann, (4 kms away) near a cave area, Mhare, Vagrya, Bormya, Markullys Pann all in Barcem. In Khajur is the Shia Puris, in Kakoda the Sateri and Zalmi Dev in Devcharawada.
There are also heritage houses like the Sara Fernandes mansion in Chandor, the Solar Souto Maior in Sao Pedro, the Municipal building in Margao – which was painted in the traditional terracotta colour, but is now painted yellow by the wise Municipal fathers, not sensitive to the fact that this building is the only replica of a similar one in Macau built by the same architect. Besides buildings, the rain trees in Campal as well as Tiracol are the scenes of many a Bollywood film setting and are cool and pleasant throughout the day.
The Mathas of Goa are unique, like at Partagal in Canacona is the Shree Sansthan Gokarn Partagali Jeevotham Math and at Kavlem is the Shree Gaudapadadaacharya Sounsthan. Entry is open to all irrespective of caste or religious backgrounds. The Goa Action Heritage Group (GAHG) conducts heritage walks, as well as treks to Tambi Surla and other sites of historical importance. The Museums like the State Museum, Christian Art Museum and the State Archaeological Museum, Goa Chitra have done yeoman’s service in the preservation of Goan culture and heritage.
The religious architecture of Goa is by far too many to name a few. From the Safa Masjid, the Namazgal of Bicholim to the temples of the pre-Portuguese period like the Chandranath Bhuthnath at Paroda hill, the Gopinath temple in Netravali with the Buddbuddi Tali, the Kaavi art temples such as Brahmanimaya in Caranzel, Sattari and of course the Old Goa Churches. Forts like the Reis Magos and Tiracol have been restored for tourist visits. The Cabo de Rama, Korjuem and Alorna are steeped in history and have scenic value.
Village feasts, festivals and dances like Shigmo, Dhalo are unique continuing trends of Goan culture. Goa’s culture is a blend between the east and the west, a case for cultural syncretism. The Cathedral, Basilica and churches of Old Goa, mosques or even the temples of Ponda are a rich slice of Goan history and leaves a positive impact in the mind of the tourist who goes back enriched with this new knowledge and picture of Goa.
Home stays in other States, provides a symbiotic platform both for the locals and the tourists. As heritage tourism helps bring economic vitality to a community, the government and private beneficiaries need to provide financial resources for protection as well as promotion. Beach and casino tourism needs to be replaced by culture and heritage tourism. Tourism is like fire, you can use it to cook with or you can burn your house down!
(Prof (Dr) Sushila Sawant Mendes is an Author and
Professor in History,
Govt College of Arts, Science
& Commerce, Quepem)
