It evokes strong emotions. It makes calm men get animated. It is after
all a part of what it means to be Goan. Feni has been around for quite a while.
In fact the first mention of Feni in official records covering revenue was as
far back as 1735.
It has lubricated various social occasions throughout history and now this move
by the excise department to tweak rules and regulations to do away with
auctioning cashew zones has generated strong emotions.
Yes, the CM issued a statement claiming the government had not initiated any effort to alter the process of auctioning the cashew plantations in the state. However given recent history not many will be willing to take him on his word. The general sentiment was still roiled by this move.
One of Goa’s largest feni producers in the state who did not want to come on record said it was very important to understand that this was an issue of cultural identity for a lot of Goans. People he said call it an emotion rather than a drink. He went onto say that given that there was angst over several issues; these feelings would come out to the fore. He said it was important to modernise and keep up with the times but it had to be handled in a very mature manner because this industry was centuries old.
Change, he said would have to be brought in incrementally and in complete consultation withal stake holders.
One had to remember the industry was very well entrenched he said. Politicians he said who would be on different sides of the political divide would unite on this issue. The drink he said traversed all the divides of the modern world with partly Goa based author Amitav Ghosh consuming it with relish as did the late Wendell Rodricks and popular actor Nana Patekar. But feni is beyond VIPs.
The reach and breadth of this industry can be gauged by Satish whose family has
been in the business for forty years. Based in Quepem, he prepares around 50-60
jerry cans of feni each season and says this is part of his family’s dna. He
said “My father started distilling all those years ago and I remember as a
child watching my dad and then joining in helping and learning the art. This
move if initiated will certainly affect us. Yes it helps generate decent money
for us depending on the rate but this is also our culture. I am a small man in
this business, I would be wiped out”.
Geetesh Velip another distiller in a village that is twenty five km
away from Netravali said he was following in the footsteps of his father and
grandfather which meant the family had spent around 70 years in this
business. In a year he said they prepared around 15 cans of feni and
double that of uraak. He said “Our main business is cashew and farming paddy. I
am also working in a theatre chain which requires me to travel ninety kms both
ways everyday. Being a Goan, feni is my livelihood and it is our main business.
It is like football it is very emotional. We are in a remote area and we don’t
have any other source of work. I will certainly not support this move for sure.
I am 31 and I will say this, I would like my children to distill feni when
their time comes”.
Prajal Sakhardande Associate professor of History was blunt when he said “Feni
and Goa are synonymous with each other. It was used even for medicinal purposes
in Goa. Anything that goes against Feni, Goans will not stand for it. There is
an emotional connect from childhood where the parents burnt feni and gave the
children who suffered from cough and cold. It is not even dubbed as a alcoholic
drink. Cashew has GI index and is a heritage beverage of Goa. It could lead to
state wide protests”.
Cecil Pinto, noted writer and humorist however had a slightly different take on
the situation. He said “The small scale and artesianal nature of Feni
distillation in Goa is one of its unique characteristics. Each small distiller
has a personal connect with his customers. He crafts a Feni which is unique to
him.
The Government wants to change the rules and being in the big players and large distilleries. This will change the nature of Feni and the intimate connect it has with Goa and Goans. Government officials have to be educated on the nature and importance of Feni before they make such decisions where no thought has been applied to the long term consequences”.
He went on to say that he did not know if the Feni problem was greater than the
Mollem problem or the garbage problem or the pollution issue. He said “Is
culture more important than commerce and environment? I think all are
important. You need informed leadership, with a vision. That is missing”.
Perhaps the pertinent question to ask is whether culture is relevant without
tradition.