FROM WARDS & VADDOS

Tavares Bakery: Preserving Goa's Baking Heritage Amid Modern Pressures

Herald Team

JENIFER FERNANDES

joseph@herald-goa.com

MOIRA: Tavares Bakery in Moira, run by Bartolomeu Tavares and his family, stands as one of the last few traditional bakeries in Goa still operated by Goans. For over four generations, this bakery has been a cornerstone of the community, providing freshly baked bread to surrounding villages, including Aldona, Nachinola, Mapusa, and nearby hotels.

Bartolomeu Tavares and his brother oversee the daily operations, baking over 5,000 breads every day. The process begins with mixing the flour, a task that takes over an hour, followed by shaping dough into balls of different sizes for various types of bread. Each batch of around 200 breads takes approximately 15 minutes to bake. Their systematic approach ensures consistent quality, a hallmark of Tavares Bakery.

Baking is not just a business for the Tavares family; it’s a legacy. Bartolomeu fondly recalls that this trade has been passed down through generations and remains the family’s sole source of livelihood. Despite the challenges, such as rising flour prices, the family is committed to preserving their traditional methods and high standards.

Unlike many Goan bakeries that have been leased to outsiders, often from regions like Karwar, Tavares Bakery continues to be run by its original owners. Bartolomeu notes that these newer operators often fail to meet the quality standards of traditional Goan bread.

The baking trade in Goa is under pressure due to the rising costs of ingredients, which have significantly increased over the years. While the prices of factory-made sliced bread have risen, traditional Goan bread prices have remained stagnant, forcing bakers to absorb financial losses.

“This is a tough profession that requires dedication,” says Bartolomeu. However, he laments that the younger generation does not show interest in continuing such family businesses. Many prefer office jobs, careers abroad, or professions offering instant recognition and luxurious lifestyles.

Bartolomeu himself worked abroad in countries like Kuwait, Abu Dhabi, and London, but eventually returned to take over the bakery from his father. His children, however, have expressed little interest in following in his footsteps.

At Tavares Bakery, only natural ingredients—salt, water, sugar, and baking powder—are used, with no chemicals added. Bartolomeu takes pride in the fact that their breads remain fresh for 3-4 days and are renowned for their flavour and quality. “We ensure every loaf is made with precision, keeping our customers happy,” he shares.

He explains that maintaining this level of quality requires both hard work and a systematic approach, but these efforts are rewarded by the bakery’s strong reputation in the community.

Bartolomeu worries that traditional businesses like theirs are slowly disappearing as younger generations shy away from such labour-intensive trades. Many traditional Goan bakers have closed down or leased their businesses, leading to a loss of cultural heritage.

“Goans must step forward to save these traditions,” he says, urging families to encourage their children to learn and continue these trades. He believes the decline of such professions is rooted not just in changing aspirations but also in societal attitudes, where such jobs are sometimes seen as lesser or unfashionable.

Despite these challenges, Bartolomeu remains committed to running Tavares Bakery as long as his health allows. “This bakery is our identity.

It represents the hard work

of generations before us, and

it deserves to be preserved,”

he says.

Tavares Bakery continues to thrive as a symbol of resilience and tradition, even in the face of modern pressures.

For now, Bartolomeu and

his brother ensure that the people of Moira and its

neighbouring areas have access to freshly baked bread, a small but significant link to Goa’s rich

heritage.

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