JENIFER FERNANDES
joseph@herald-goa.com
ALDONA: Santiago Miranda of of Khoirut in Aldona, rises each day with a singular purpose — to bake bread the way it was meant to be. As the proprietor of St Thomas Bakery, Santiago has been kneading dough, shaping loaves, and keeping tradition alive for over four decades. “I’ve been in the bakery profession for more than 40 years now,” says the soft-spoken Santiago. “But before that, I spent over 15 years learning the trade from others.”
His journey began in Chodna, where he worked in a bakery alongside several other Goans. Those years, spent observing and absorbing knowledge from skilled bakers, laid the foundation for his future. “Back then, the goal was simple — to bake good bread and serve the community,” he says.
There was a time when Goans eagerly awaited the arrival of the poder, the traditional bread-seller, especially in the early hours of the morning. Santiago remembers those days
fondly but notes that the times have changed.
“Many Goans have gone abroad, and very few remain in traditional occupations,” he says. “These days, migrants have taken over many trades, including baking. But they don’t always follow the right methods — some start working in bakeries with hardly any training. The quality is lost when you skip the process.”
Santiago is concerned about the slow decline of the traditional Goan bakery. He believes that as locals distance themselves from these trades, the soul of Goan baking — its techniques, patience, and care — is being eroded. Determined not to let that happen, he started his own bakery after leaving his job, supported by his family and fortified by years of training. “Learning from professionals is not the same as just doing a bakery course,” he says. “Experience makes all the difference.”
He recalls the early years when he would receive five massive sacks of wheat — each weighing more than 90 kilos — to make bread. “We used to start work at 5 p.m. and continue till 9 a.m. the next day. It was hard, but I never complained. I’ve always believed that if you work hard, God will bless you.”
Despite studying only till the seventh standard and never taking a formal course, Santiago has become an expert in his field through sheer experience. His bakery now employs several workers, many of whom have been with him for over 15 years. He trains them personally to uphold his standards.
“There was a time we would bake 4,000 to 5,000 pieces of bread a day,” he says. “After Covid-19, things slowed down. Many migrants started bakeries, and some Goans even rented theirs out. That’s when the quality dropped.”
He remembers selling bread for just one rupee, earning a profit of barely 5 or 10 paisa per piece. “But even with that, I was content. I used to save about Rs 10,000 a year. It was enough. These days, bakery workers make Rs 20,000 to Rs 30,000 a month, but prices have gone up too.”
Santiago also has vivid memories of life in the early 70s. “In 1972, my mother gave me 20 paise to buy groceries. Ration rice was 1.50 paise a kilo. Life was simpler, and people seemed happier.”
He never feared starting his own business. “It was a risk, yes, but I was confident in my training. The business grew slowly. I taught my workers everything — from mixing flour and yeast to letting the dough rest for two to three hours.”
He adds, “Bakery work is not easy. People eat bread every day but don’t realise the effort that goes into it. Once the dough is ready, baking starts around 11 pm and goes on till morning.” He shares a story of a friend who once asked for 100 loaves within an hour. “I told him, ‘This isn’t like frying batata vadas. Good bread takes five to six hours to make.’” Today, St Thomas Bakery supplies between 2,000 to 2,500 loaves daily across various areas. While Santiago continues to work tirelessly, he admits that his children aren’t very interested in taking over
the trade. “They’ve studied well and prefer jobs that match their qualifications,” he says. “One of my sons has done a bakery course and now works abroad. He’s doing well and enjoys it — I’m happy for him.”
Even if there’s a staff shortage, Santiago doesn’t shy away from getting his hands dirty. Sometimes, his children pitch in too. He takes pride in the fact that through this bakery, he was able to provide for his family and give his children a good education.
“Having your own business means freedom. I don’t need to look for work or report to anyone. Every job has challenges — whether it’s an office or a bakery — but this has given me everything I needed.” Still, Santiago worries about the future. “Traditional Goan businesses are slowly slipping away,” he says. “People are handing them over to migrants who care more about profit than quality. The heart of Goan bread is being lost.”
Even today, he personally checks every batch of bread that comes out of his ovens. “Migrants may bake faster, but we Goans bake with care. That’s the difference.”
He believes it’s not too late. “Bread has been part of Goan life since Portuguese times. We need to support and preserve it. If you’re unemployed and looking for work, come learn the trade. There’s honour in this job.”
In the evenings, Santiago’s wife still enjoys the freshly baked polis from St Thomas Bakery —
a small, simple pleasure made possible by a lifetime of hard work and pride.