ERWIN FONSECA
SIOLIM: Goan villages have long been cradles of culinary excellence, and among them, Saligao and Siolim stand out as home to some of the finest talents in the food industry. From national events to intimate celebrations, Goan cooks have left an indelible mark, and one cannot speak of this legacy without mentioning Anton Joao Noronha.
Born in Siolim, Anton completed his education at St Joseph’s School in Arpora, a well-regarded institution of its time. Despite the lack of transportation, he and his friends made the long trek every day, fuelled by dreams of building successful lives.
“We were an energetic group, dreaming of securing good futures and doing something meaningful for our village,” Anton recalls. After school, Anton initially followed a conventional path. He spent five years working in Muscat before returning to Goa and taking up a job in a local mining firm. However, the life of a salaried worker didn’t satisfy his ambitions. “I realised working for someone else wasn’t going to help me achieve my dreams,” he says.
Around this time, Anton’s brother, trained in baking during his time in Gujarat, returned to Goa. Their mother suggested opening a bakery in Siolim. “Bakeries were genuinely Goan enterprises back then, unlike today, when many have been leased to outsiders. It was an honourable trade, and we carried it forward with pride,” Anton explains.
While running the bakery, Anton observed the immense talent among Siolim’s cooks. Many were experts in traditional Goan and Portuguese cuisine, skills passed down through generations. This inspired him to venture into catering—a field that had no major players at the time.
“So, with some cooking knowledge of my own and a team of extraordinary cooks, we started taking orders. It was something entirely new then,” he says.
The venture quickly gained momentum, and Anton’s team began travelling across Goa and beyond, serving events in Pernem, Canacona, and even Sawantwadi in Maharashtra. With communication systems still rudimentary, most orders came through word-of-mouth recommendations.
“People sought us out and insisted their celebrations be catered by me, even adjusting their event dates to fit into our busy schedule,” Anton recalls proudly. Initially, food was served on plates and charged per plate—Rs 10 to 15 in the 1980s. Buffets, which were just becoming popular, cost around Rs 50 per dish. “These rates were unthinkable by today’s standards, but it was a fair price for the quality we delivered,” he says.
Anton and his team often catered multiple events daily. “Sometimes, we handled four to five parties in a single day. It was hectic, but the love and trust people showed us made it worthwhile,” he remembers.
Anton’s career was not without its challenges. He vividly recalls a few difficult experiences with customers. “There were times when people refused to pay after using our services, and once, I was even threatened at knifepoint,” he shares. Despite these challenges, Anton’s reputation soared, especially among Portuguese-speaking communities, who adored his authentic flavours. “Our food had no artificial agents—everything was pure and genuine. This is why people from as far as South Goa would insist on hiring us,” he explains.
After retiring from catering nearly eight years ago, Anton continues to run his bakery at Tarchi Bhat, Siolim. Now, his children are settled in their own careers, leaving Anton and his wife to manage the business at a slower pace.
“Even today, people come to us with catering requests, but we’ve hung up our boots,” Anton says, smiling wistfully. He attributes his success to his dedicated team. “Most of them are no longer alive, or they’ve retired due to age or other challenges. Their skills were the backbone of my business, and I owe everything to them.”
Looking back, Anton is grateful for the bonds he forged and the love he received from Goan families. “There’s a world of difference between then and now. Today, catering is a crowded market, but in my time, we were pioneers. I even dressed wedding cakes personally—it was a responsibility I enjoyed,” he says.
Today, Anton enjoys a quieter life but cherishes the golden era when he and his team transformed events with their unmatched culinary skills. Despite the passage of time, Anton’s name remains synonymous with excellence in Goan catering.
A love for Konkani and tiatros
Even amidst his demanding schedule, Anton remained a staunch advocate of Konkani culture. A passionate lover of tiatros (Konkani plays), he wrote and staged three original productions during his 30s and 40s.
“I invited great tiatrists like M. Boyer, Aristides, and Nelson to Siolim. They performed out of respect and friendship, often not charging a rupee. Sometimes, I paid them in instalments, but their trust in me was immense,” he says with gratitude.