The vibrant colours of Shigmo or Holi are something to experience in Goa as perhaps nowhere else for the sheer diversity in cultural traditions exhibited at nooks and corners of the smallest state in the country. Shigmo is that time of the year when various folk traditions comes to the fore that is worth a day out and get immersed in festivity in the places of their origin. The festival that began on the full moon day of Hindu calendar month of Phalgun continues for 14 days.
Songs, dance, drama and music form the integral part of festivity when rituals involve invoking of local deities and spirits. Gade, Godhe Moddni, Chorotsav, Sheni Uzo, Sottreo, Gulaal, Shishyaranni, Toniya mhel, Karavlyo and many other folk customs are presented by the villages known for their unique traditions during Goa’s Shigmo celebrations. From morning till nights, the beats of Dholl (drums) and other instruments are played by youths following in the footsteps they have inherited from their elders celebrating the spring festival.
In Ponda, Sanguem and and Bicholim taluka and few other places are known for the fierce warrior Veerbhadra or Virbhadra festivity, which is something that is never missed by the revellers. Clad in the ferocious mythological character, Veerbhadra, the reincarnation of Lord Shiva is something to experience for his violent portrayal. It is believed that Virbhadra Avtaar took birth out of the wrath of Shiva when he found that his consort Parvati immolated herself due to
insult by her father Daksha. The Virbhadra
character was born out of vengeance that leads to the destruction of ego and pride. And, it is this character that makes this festival an enthralling sight.
At the Shree Vitthal Devasthan in Ponda, which has a history of over 200 years, Shishirotsav a variety of cultural programmes are organised on the occasion of Shigmo where people from across the state throng to witness them. Delving into the festival in this taluka also known as Antruz Mahal, temple committee member Nitin Kolvekar mentioned, “Virbhadra in Ponda, is one of the most spectacular for the very character it portrays. In Ponda, Virbhadra appears like a ferocious soldier, at Sanguem, he is more of a gracious character whereas at Sanquelim, the appearance is much milder and bluish in outlook. Yakshagana style is quite prominent in Karnataka.” Borim, Sanvordem and Shiroda also have their own Virbhadra festivity at different times.
Historically, Ponda was ruled by various dynasties that included Kadambas, Shilaharas,
Adil Shahi, Marathas and Soundekar Raja, with each one these rulers leaving their mark. Virbhadra is important character in the Karnataka region, rulers from there had a great influence in this part of Goa.
Ten days Shigmo festival leading to Gudi Padva, the Hindu New Year is a multi-cultural event filled with religious rituals, dramas, Kirtan, Pati jamavap (donation collection) and other fun-filled activities for youth, informs Kolvekar. As a mark of respect to all deities in the region, a Shishirotsav invitation is also given to Pir that is located in the fort area (Kot), which was under the control of Muzawar during Adil Shahi period. Shigmo begins with Haldona, colour applied to deity followed by Suwari Wadan, the playing of traditional folk music.
The most important event however, is Virbhadra dance that is going to be held on coming Sunday, two days before Gudi Padva. Kolvekar adds, “In the evening, first there is procession of Navro, a character performed by an unmarried young man who get focused by the villagers. It is often observed that, the man who plays the role of groom find his match in marriage before the next Shigmo festival. During this procession there is a twist, when a corpse (modde) of a man (actually a living person, playing dead) is carried during this celebratory moment, that reminds one and all that in times of good, we have to also be vigilant to face uncertainties.” Kolvekar informs.
The performance of Virbhadra begins with invoking the god for his blessings for the success of festival and well-being of all. Virbhadra is shown a mirror and after Varavni, mention of 108 names of Mahadeo the dance begins with Virbhadra holding two torches of fire that signifies his birth from fire. He is accompanied by two dancers on either side. Later, he dances with two swords as he approaches the temple in a state of trance and falls on the ground that marks the end of festivity. The vigorous dance is eye catching at the same time very scary, notes Kolvekar.
The character of Virbhadra was exceptionally portrayed over the years by a local resident, Shriprasad Shirsat whose personality matched the character. He continued the performance for almost 50 years. In recent times, equally talented, Shrihari Tukaram Shet Parkar (Jeetendra) has stepped into this charismatic role of Virbhadra. Parkar, said, “For the last 14 years, I am enacting the responsibility of Virbhadra. I feel happy and it gives me great satisfaction to perform such an important religious duty, which I do with full energy. It gives me opportunity to show
my prowess in the village and to the people coming from far and wide. Before that important day, I fast for eight days consuming only vegetarian food.”
About his preparation he adds, “There are people in the village who are very good at make-up and dressing. It takes about at least an hour to be ready and the performance begins little past 10 pm. Festival doesn’t end with that act but continues with a drama show.”
Another ritual they conduct a night before Gudi Padva, is the erecting of a trunk of a cotton tree in front of Bhumi-Purush temple known as Durig, which is decorated with cloth and colour that forms the Gudi (flag) of celebration for the entire village.
Shigmo festivities in rural stretches across Goa brings one closer to the ethnic cultural practices that are still in vogue, which are kept alive by the villagers despite out migrations of young generation to towns and cities.
Although centuries have elapsed in the evolution of traditions influenced by various cultures from different dynasties and religions, the respect for cross-cultural practices still remain, and Shigmo in Goa is one of a way forward to keep differences away and get immersed in festivity for welfare of humanity. Festivities are best enjoyed by being part of the celebrations and reinvent the bonhomie in each other.