This week began with the news that the people of Morjim, after knocking on all doors and having lost faith in the local MLA and the Town and Country Planning Department, called upon the rakhandar of Morjim and offered prayers at the Shree Satpurush Shrine (who the locals believe as the rakhandar of the people) and the Kanadi Vans temple. Rakhno in Konkani means protector.
A village elder said a loud prayer,(locally referred to as gharane, or pleading and requesting a spirit or deity to look after the well-being of oneself, or the family or village) with the words, “It does not matter if a minister, an MLA or panch member is involved. We ask you to hear our plea.
The land mafia is troubling us and we want peace of mind”. They were angry that the traditional paths to go to the rakhandar of Morjim and Mandrem were blocked by the builders. Yesterday heralded good news that Ministry of Environment, Forest & Climate Change, New Delhi has directed the Principal Chief Conservator of Forests, Goa to take appropriate necessary action against rampant hill cutting in Goa and to submit an action taken report. It must be noted that as a result of the Mopa airport, demand for real estate in Mopa has shot up.
Much before organised religion came into being, the earliest forms of beliefs were Animism, Totemism and Shamanism– all rooted in the worship of environment and nature. Anthropology, studies and respects beliefs, practices, customs and traditions. Goans have grown up hearing folktales of the power of the rakhno or a village spirit who is respected as the guardian of all. The rakhno is believed to safeguard fields, villages as well as individuals who loose their way to reach home. It is believed that some live on banyan trees and red or saffron coloured flags are tied to the branches of trees or lit brass or earthen lamps are symbols of the intangible presence of this spirit. Woolen shawls (kambals), coconuts, flowers, flags, pieces of fabric, and even beedis or bottles of feni are offered for favours made or received. Before leaving the worshipers fold their hands in reverence, circumambulate the tree once and quietly walk away without talking but more importantly as advised by elders without looking behind because it is not just the rakhandar that one will see, but evil spirits (portrayed as weird deformed reptilian like creatures) that follow close behind him.
Some may consider these as figments of imagination. Myths, legends and oral histories continue to illustrate the multi layered identities of villages, deities and people. On the other hand. there are also the rakhnos that have small shrines dedicated to them, made from cement or concrete or simple tin sheets. Shri Dandeshwar Prassana has a temple erected for him; dressed in Dhangar tribal attire, as the rakhno, he guards the crossroad at Verem-Reis Magos.
As a small child, I was introduced to this concept by elders pointing to a small cross high up on the hill in Goenchem Bhatt, clearly visible from my house in Olizaino, Velim. We were informed by village elders to look in the direction of the cross, make a sign of the cross and say, “Deva tum pav”.The very height of this cross made it a protective overseer of the village and it was called, Matievoilo Rakhnneacho Khuris (translated literally as the protective cross on the top of the head). The childhood memory of a procession going up the hill carrying red flags a midst the greenery of the mountain is too beautiful to erase! Unfortunately one of our hills has also not been spared in recent times!
In the verdant green environment of fields as you enter the city of Mapusa was a seven-feet-tall clay figure of Bodkya which has been replaced by a fibreglass one, with the nomenclature now altered to Lord Bodkeshwar and then Bodgeshwar or Kanakeshwar Baba. He is considered Angvonnecho (one to whom vows are made and one who fulfills the desires of the devotees) and the guardian of Mapusa city. The various temples in Mapusa offer fruits and flowers to Lord Bodgeshwar as he is considered the protector of the temples in the vicinity. The fish vendors, vegetable vendors, rickshaw and pickup drivers associations and even the Mapusa Municipality take turns to offer Satya Narayan puja.
From north to South Goa there are several versions of this rakhno ¬– each having its own name. A rock-carved figure of Nagdo Vetaal (or Betaal) guards the Loliem village in South Goa. He is worshiped as the ascetic version of Shiva. Sometimes he is believed to walk at night through the village so an oil lamp is kept near his left foot. Devotees offer big sized slippers for his walk in the village, with the smaller sized ones blessed and taken home to hang on the doorways. Sometimes coconuts, betel nuts and leaves, a bottle of country liquor and a roti or bread made of husk with a preparation of meat is also offered. For favours received, the belief and devotion in the rakhandar continues.
Sinquerim is a very beautiful village in terms of its nature as well as its history due to Fort Aguada. Village ancestors have passed down the story of the village rakhandar Lord Gageshwar, believed to be a very powerful supernatural entity. Fading memories portray this spirit as an old tall figure that carries a wooden staff and has chains or ghungroos on the feet. They also believe that the rakhandar’s path should never be blocked, or misfortune shall befall whoever is responsible.
Not all rakhnos take on the masculine form as one known woman rakhno exists in in Sattari taluka. Some want besides slippers, green glass bangles, colourful fabric and some, just respect or maan (namaskar with the head bowed in reverence). Some are known to help find lost articles and even lost domestic animals.
On 20th August was the feast of the Handi Khuris in Maina, Curtorim also known as the Xetkareanchem fest, the feast of farmers. It is believed that whatever one asks and prays with faith would certainly be fulfilled. This year, the prayer was that God blesses our leaders to pass laws for the protection and safety of our environment.
After Wayanad, the whole country and the world has seen how hotels, restaurants and commercial real estates, with haphazardly built villas have caused massive destruction and loss of innocent lives. A landslide has already taken place on 7th July, in Connem, Farmagudi, however the large boulders left on the top of hill which could have dangerously rolled down on the traffic below were cleared recently on 23rd August.
Many Goans embodying the true spirit of the rakhandhar have pointed out fearlessly the dangers of amendments passed and proposed to be passed in the existing laws which unfortunately also allow conversion and destruction of Goa. The hill cutting at Dharbandora needs pro-active action against the violators.
The gharane taken at Morjim needs to echo throughout Goa. When those in power look the other side in the face of blatant large scale destruction of forests and hill cutting and when money and power, overpowers the livelihood of both land, wildlife and people, may the rakhandars of each village in Goa empower its sons and daughters to guard Goa, before it goes the Wayanad way.
(Sushila Sawant Mendes
is a Professor in
History, author and an
Independent Researcher)