ANJUNA: Times are changing rapidly, and so are our lifestyles, as we adapt to modern times. Many in the younger generation have discarded old habits, seeing them as outdated and irrelevant. Yet, many elderly people, like Sanjeevani Betkar from Anjuna, believe that old traditions should be preserved.
Despite her age, Sanjeevani Betkar is highly enterprising. She keeps herself busy by making coconut brooms, mixing her own garam masala spice blend, and most importantly, peeling and drying kokum—the wonder fruit. Kokum, or Garcinia indica, has always been central to the Goan lifestyle, and Sanjeevani is dedicated to promoting its use and educating people about its benefits. She diligently gathers kokum fruits during the season, peels and dries them, converts them into sol’lam, and stores them for the year.
Though she sometimes sells her products at Mapusa market, many prefer to buy directly from her house, keeping her constantly busy. “I learned these traditions at my parents’ house and have practiced them all my life. I’m not one to sit idle. Throughout the year, I make brooms, prepare my own masala, and during kokum season, I love to peel and dry kokum,” she says.
Sanjeevani laments the erosion of traditional values, noting that fewer people today preserve the art of traditional food making using kokum. “Everyone today wants fast food and commercial restaurant-style food. Nobody wants to cook at home in our traditional way. We are losing our culinary foundations,” she laments. She emphasises that kokum has many health benefits and medicinal properties, making it essential in Goan food, akin to coconut. “Apart from providing nourishment and antioxidants, kokum can also be applied topically – the peels are very good for the skin. If anyone has a rash or allergy, rubbing kokum peels on it gives immediate relief,” she adds.
Determined to keep the tradition alive, Sanjeevani continues to make sol’lam and store it for the rainy season, selling it to those who appreciate its value. “I don’t need public recognition or praise for my work; my customers provide me with fulfilment,” she quips.
For several years, she has set up a stall at Mapusa market for four days before the Ganesh festival, encouraging her village folks to sell local produce that is in high demand during this period. Her house is always filled with coconut palms for broom making, and she happily serves her customers who seek out her products. However, she feels that these traditions must be carried forward by the younger generation. “Some traditions were born out of necessity, but it is our duty to preserve and promote them as they form an essence of our life,” she says. “Traditions like storing chillies, salt, dried kokum peels, or sol’lam for monsoons should not be discarded.”
“Kokum is a fruit with multiple uses and significant health benefits. It should be promoted and incorporated into food. In my house, we regularly use kokum. With a climate that favours the use of kokum, we must ensure it is utilised to its maximum potential,” she says. Elderly women like Sanjeevani, who have painstakingly preserved these traditions, are an example to Goan youth who don’t realise their importance. If these traditions are not kept alive and promoted, the essence of being Goan will be lost, along with our age-old heritage.
Sanjeevani lists out the health benefits of using kokum in food and drink, as part of a healthy, balanced diet:
Loaded with nutrients: Kokum contains citric acid, carbohydrates, malic acid, acetic acid, hydro citric acid, ascorbic acid, vitamin B complexes, garcinol, manganese, potassium, magnesium, hydroxycitric acid, and dietary fibre
Anti-inflammation properties: Kokum is used for the treatment of sores, burns, allergies, and rashes; it may help reduce pain and swelling
Digestive aid: Kokum improves digestion, helps treat constipation and reduces symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome
Antifungal & antioxidant properties: Kokum helps prevent infection and is used as a food preservative
Cooling properties:
Kokum reduces the body heat and has cooling properties. It refreshes and energises
Appetite suppression: Kokum contains hydroxy citric acid (HCA), a natural compound linked to appetite suppression
Fat metabolism: HCA in Kokum is thought to inhibit an enzyme called citrate lyase, which the body uses to convert carbohydrates into fat, helping in weight management Promoting healthy gut
microbiota: Kokum is rich in dietary fibre, which is essential for maintaining a healthy gut
Lowering cholesterol: Research suggests that Kokum may help lower LDL (bad) cholesterol levels due to its high antioxidant content and the presence of HCA
Blood Pressure regulation: Potassium in Kokum plays a role in regulating blood pressure by helping to maintain electrolyte balance
Skin and hair benefits: Kokum's antioxidants and fatty acids may improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, and promote healthy hair growth