JENIFER FERNANDES
joseph@herald-goa.com
“The first thing I do when I receive an order is buy all the necessary ingredients. It takes me over two days to prepare everything. Some dishes, like vonn and samariachi koddi, require advance preparation. For example, samariachim koddi must be made the day before the function to allow the gravy to develop its full flavour. You can’t make and deliver it on the same day,” she explains.
Due to health concerns, Bruna now takes only home orders for a limited number of customers.
“Earlier, my earnings were very low,
but I managed. I remain the chief cook even today, not allowing helpers to handle the main tasks — they only assist with prep and chores. I personally oversee everything to maintain quality – as good food requires patience and slow cooking. Cleanliness and hygiene are non-negotiable for me.”
Bruna once aspired to work in an office. Life, however, had different plans for her.
“ I even applied for a government job, but I was refused, being told there were no suitable positions for women. After my husband’s death, I chose to continue this trade. It was destiny’s path for me.”
While her children know how to make a few dishes, Bruna says the full mastery of these recipes — and the connection to the tradition — is unique.
“The true significance of these dishes lies in the way people respond after eating them — they thank me and pray for my good health It’s a blessing,” she smiles.
Preparing bol (another coconutty Goan sweet) is another painstaking process she takes pride in.
“It starts with grinding wheat into flour, then mixing it with jaggery, rice, and toddy, and wrapping it in leaves. We grate 10 to 15 coconuts by hand and grind the flesh with jaggery on a traditional stone grinder. No modern mixers for me!
For a batch of 25 kg of bol, she uses around 2 kg of wheat. After mixing, the batter is left to ferment before being baked the next day.
“This work helped me raise my children and meet our basic needs. In our time, we had little education and few opportunities. I have done many kinds of jobs — working in fields, selling cashews, gardening, even making garlands — just to survive.”
Today, Bruna’s dishes — and her
signature masala — have travelled far
beyond Goa.
“People take my food abroad — even to America! True Goan delicacies are hard to find abroad. The authenticity remains rooted here, and whenever
people return, they long for these tastes and take some back for their families
and friends.”
Despite the challenges of age and health, Bruna remains committed to her craft. “My favourite dishes to prepare are mellgor and samariachi koddi.
As long as my health permits, I will continue cooking”.