ERWIN FONSECA
SIOLIM: In the early days, when tarred roads were nonexistent and transport was minimal—limited to a lone ‘Camiao’ truck that made a few daily trips—traveling to Mapusa market was a distant dream for most. Bullock carts were the main means of transport, and even bicycles were rarely seen. During the Portuguese era, a single Camiao operated a few times a day to support the working class. After the Portuguese left and until the launch of the Kadamba Transport Corporation (KTC) service by Chief Minister Pratapsingh Rane in 1980, Goans had little access to public transport. In this context, weekly village markets emerged as vital commercial hubs. Villages across Bardez—including Calangute, Assonora, and Siolim—established their own weekly bazaars, allowing local vendors to sell their wares without needing to travel far.
The Siolim market quickly became one of the most popular and enduring of these, often likened to a miniature version of the bustling Mapusa market. Women would walk long distances—often carrying heavy loads on their heads—to reserve a spot in the market square. After a day’s work under the hot sun, they would make the same journey home, undeterred by hills or muddy paths. These markets not only helped people survive economically but also fostered a sense of community, especially among women who travelled in groups, united by shared struggles and hard work.
Today, 80-year-old Graciana D’Souza, fondly called Gracy, remains a fixture of the Siolim market. A pillar of strength and an embodiment of perseverance, Gracy has continued her work despite enduring personal tragedies, including the loss of her husband and only daughter. “I come from a very hardworking family. We are deeply rooted in our culture and traditions and have come
up through difficult means,” she says.
Initially, Gracy sold local produce in Mapusa, but due to the logistical challenges, she began focusing on her village market instead, setting up her stall every Wednesday and eventually even on Sundays. She now sells a variety of traditional Goan items, including sweets,
vinegar, pickles, and agricultural produce—either
prepared by herself, her equally industrious sister, or sourced from well-wishers. During the monsoon season, she also brings a variety of plants to sell.
Despite her age, Gracy remains active and engaged. She recently participated in the Siolim Coconut Festival, setting up a stall with an array of coconut-based sweets that won much praise from visitors.
Another stalwart of the market is Leopoldina Gonsalves, who travels all the way from Nerul—crossing seven villages—to set up her stall in Siolim every Wednesday. Now in her 60s, Leopoldina began her market journey at age 17, shortly after marrying into a farming family. “In those days, girls married young. My mother-in-law would bring our local produce to Siolim on a bullock cart. After a couple of years, I took over, and I’ve been coming here ever since,” she says.
In her 42 years at the Siolim market, Leopoldina has witnessed immense transformation—not only in Siolim but also in the villages she passes through. “A lot of Goan fields have disappeared. Labour costs have skyrocketed. The same produce I now sell for hundreds of rupees used to be sold for a few paisa,” she observes. Yet, her pride in her farming roots remains strong. “We have large fields in Nerul, and we continue to grow seasonal produce and strictly Goan food items all year round.”
The Siolim market, much like its vendors, has adapted and evolved, but it continues to serve as a beacon of Goan resilience, tradition, and self-reliance. And thanks to veterans like Gracy and Leopoldina, it still retains the warmth and familiarity of a bygone era.