The ten day Lokotsav festival currently on in Panjim brings together crafts, treats and exclusive pieces from across the corners of India over a ten day period which ends on January 26.
Mojari shoes, Rajasthan
Rajasthani Mojari, is a traditional handmade shoe originating from the colorful state of Rajasthan. Based in Jaipur, Wasim Khan is an artisan whose family for over hundred years has been involved in the art of making shoes. Artisans predominantly use high-quality leather and adorn the shoes with intricate embellishments, showcasing the vibrant colors synonymous with Rajasthan. Wasim said, “All the work is done by hand for the shoes which are fashionable and party wear. I have been doing it for ten years. My mother and father and the entire family are involved in the design and making of these shoes”.
Wasim said his father and his grandfather were all involved in this business. He has been visiting Lokotsav in Goa since 2017 and he said the response by the customers in Goa was very good. He said, “I have been treated with respect and they purchase from me which keeps me in a good frame of mind”. The shoes cost Rs 350 per piece. Now, there were mojaris with heels which was the latest fashion and could be worn with a saree, jeans or western dresses. “We always consider the customer’s needs when designing a Mojari. The shoe should not bite the feet or cause any other discomfort to the feet. The pasting that is used in these shoes was similar to those found in branded wear,” said Wasim.
Traditional Kauna bags, Manipur
Longjam Ramgopal makes traditional Kauna bags using Kauna grass, soft, spongy reed or rush that grows in the wetlands of Manipur and he makes this as part of a collective called the Green Crafts. They use different design and he makes around two pieces a day. Longjam said, “Bags can cost anywhere between Rs 200 to 1200. This business of making this traditional bag is in my blood. My grandparents ran a small stall and after they passed away, my aunt ran it but after Covid it became my responsibility.”
He learned the art from his relatives who lived around him. He admitted that it started off as a time pass activity but he was focused on upgrading the standards and so he got serious. Longjam said, “I interact with over 160 artisans in the state.” He revealed that they could make three bags a day depending on the design. The moon bag is very popular among the general public. “We also customise a bag depending on the demands of the customer, different sizes and dimensions. We receive orders from all over India as well as a few clients from abroad in cities like Dubai and Paris. Right now we are focused on business in the country,” said Longjam. This is his first time to Lokutsav in Goa and it has been a great experience with everyone being helpful and business being very good.
Handwoven Eri Silk Sarees, Assam
Purnima Pathak is an artisan from Assam who makes sarees made of traditional silk called Muga and Eri. The silk was from Assam and produced in the state. She said, “I make the sarees myself and have been coming to the Lokotsav for the past ten years. The response to the sarees have been excellent from the local Goans who visits the festival. They like the quality of the work and I have been involved in this art form for the past 18 years. Everything in the saree is locally sourced and the processing of the thread takes at least a month.” A saree takes around 15 to 20 days to make but if it is a heavy design then it an even take a month to make a single piece. Anything that takes 2 to 3 days will cost around Rs 1500 and the ones that take fifteen days can cost as much as Rs 15,000. The sarees with heavy design which take a month can cost as much as Rs 70,000 to Rs 80,000. She said, “During my visit to Goa, I sell around 25 to 30 sarees. In India every state had something unique and in Assam this was certainly unique.”
Traditional jewellery, Rajasthan
Naval Kishore Jagetia is an artisan who makes ceremonial traditional jewellery in Jaipur. In the business for over 15 years, his interest in the art form was developed by being around artisans who made them. Naval said, “I specialize in Meenakari art. This process involves using glass powder which is placed on metal and subjected to heat. It melts to create an enamelled finish. It is special to Rajasthan and I make around 500 pieces a day thanks to the staff I have employed. Everything is made by hand. It starts from Rs 50 per earring and can go up to Rs 200.” He has been a regular visitor to the festival for the past five years. Naval said, “The awareness among the young population has increased and they would come and buy the earrings. I always talk to my customers to gauge their changing tastes and I incorporate them in the designs. My designs were traditional with a modern touch.”
Pattachitra, Odisha
Known for their vibrant colors, creative designs, and mythological themes, Pattachitra is a traditional hand painting style from Odisha. Sonali Pahi is an artist who has been involved in creating and selling these works of art which is prepared on a coconut leaf which is peeled and cut and then joined and then painted upon. Sonali said, “This work is done by the family and we use stone colours for the art work. These colours have a long life and they don’t get spoiled by worms and get black. The time required to make them depends on their sizes. Some get ready in a couple of hours, others in two days and I make them all by myself.”
She also makes creative bookmarks on which she paints tribal art, images of Lord Ganesh and other gods. She said, “My mother has been doing this for 35 years and she also trains other people. The material used to frame a photograph was Beth, a kind of wood which we would treat with turmeric water for a month. It is then dried and used. It stays strong for a very long time.” They have been coming to Goa for 25 years and the response has been very good.