Unraveling the multifaceted aspects behind Goa’s love for food

Dr Maria de Lourdes Bravo da Costa Rodrigues was recently awarded a PhD by the Goa University for her thesis on ‘Food History of Goa: its multifaceted aspects from 1900-1961’. The Goan culinary world is highlighted through this thesis that connects the simple ingredients of food in Goa
Unraveling the multifaceted aspects behind Goa’s love for food
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Dr Maria de Lourdes Bravo da Costa Rodrigues, a retired senior librarian at the Goa State Central Library in Panjim always desired to be awarded a PhD. However, with her service as a librarian for over 37 years, she needed her own pace to research and complete her thesis. She finally did it with after six years of research, with ‘Food History of Goa: its multifaceted aspects from 1900-1961’ for which she was recently awarded a PhD by Goa University.

Graduating in 1974 in chemistry and geology, she did her degree in library science in SNDT Women’s University in 1982-83. “After coming back to Goa, I did my MA in History. I had to answer an exam to change the faculty. I did eight papers in History as I wanted History of Goa paper. History does not mean only dates or names. History has much more beyond that and now as one writes their own research papers, one has their own analysis and arguments and then you have to defend your arguments. History means you have to analyses and you need to have an argument and contribute something. Otherwise it is nothing original,” she explains.

“My thesis guide was Professor Remy Dias, who at that time was professor and Deputy Director of Higher Education in Porvorim. It suited me to discuss the thesis with him in Porvorim. I decided on Food history but we both decided on the chapters and what we would work on. As a student, I had to talk and decide with the guide before preparing a proposal. Then, the proposal has to be submitted to a committee at Goa University which decides if it is a good proposal. When you submit your synopsis they check with a software how much copied from another source and the same thing they do for the thesis too. You cannot go beyond 300 pages for the entire thesis. Prof Remy Dias’ suggestions and guidance led me through research with innovative ideas in writing the thesis,” says Dr Maria about her six years of research and presentation of her thesis. Prof Remy is now a History professor at Government College of Arts, Science and Commerce, Quepem.

Dr Maria was fortunate to complete her research before the Covid-19 pandemic. She visited libraries in Coimbra and Lisbon. “My research started before Covid-19. Fortunately, I had done all the research work before the libraries closed during the pandemic. I could start writing, I used to coordinate with my guide online. The thesis has an introduction and conclusion and five chapters. It was multifaceted so it was different for each chapter but I started with rice and ended with rice. In the last chapter also I share the problems we had with the insufficiency with rice during economic blockade,” she elaborates.

The first chapter, ‘Rice, the perennially ‘insufficient’ Goan Staple’, is on the insufficiency of rice. It was our staple and still insufficient for us. I based my argument on a novel, ‘O Signo Da Ira’ by Orlando Da Costa. That lower strata people suffered because of the rich people, the landlords, the communidades and the government, who would also cheat the farmer. The government and the gaunkaris used to bully people. I also used poems from RA Pandit’s Konkani book, ‘Mhajem Utar Ganvddeachem’, where he cries about the rain and the shortage of food. Even others have discussed this topic where those who tilled the land didn’t get much in return,” says Dr Maria.

The second chapter is the one which Dr Maria loved working on as it was a theme that was close to her heart. “Food, the memory connector. A study of the Goan folk and other forms of literature’ is a new topic and it was a the most challenge chapter for me because I was doing something that was not explored. To understand the whole thing, I had to use international research scholars but for material on this, I based my arguments and analysis on local folklore, folk art, short stories, mando, dulpods and even cradle songs,” says Dr Maria, who referred to Jon Holtzman’s ‘Food and memory’ and David Sutton’s ‘Remembrance of Repasts -
An anthropology of food
and memory’.

She further adds, “One cradle song is how mothers and grandmothers would call an imaginary crow while feeding the child with the line, ‘Kaudea, kaudea io, io, Kaudea, kaudea io, io, iem chit tuca gue– haap’  ‘Crow, crow, come here, come here, take this handful of rice – haap.’ Another dulpod I used in thesis is ‘Avoi Maiatso Muinnom Paulo Lagim’ which explains that there is so much work to do in the month of May. Earlier, Goan households had to have enough rice in the cellar which had to be boiled and kept ready for the rest of the season. That way you connect memories to the food.”

The third chapter on ‘Feasts and traditions: borrowing to celebrate festivities and indebtedness’ is a beautiful chapter what makes Goa so unique through its celebrations where food plays an integral part. However, it also highlights the plight of Goans who had to celebrate these feasts even at the cost of taking debts. Right from St Anne’s feast also known as ‘Touchemche Fest’ (cucumber’s feast) in Talaulim, ‘Pejechem Fest’ in Siridao, ‘Tisreachem Fest’ in Nerul to the Harvest Festival in Talegaio are elaborately explained.

‘Drinks that ‘cheers’ and brings tears’ is based on the role of drinks in the Goan society. As every occasion, happy or sad, is celebrated with alcohol, the repercussions of the vice of alcoholism is felt, not just on an individual but on the family and community as well. “People are not accepting alcohol as a problem even though people know it. It is not a local but an international problem. Alcohol was selected as bad food for the thesis,”
says Dr Maria.

The last chapter before the conclusion, ‘Economic blockade and the pangs of hunger’ again highlights the importance of rice as the staple food of Goa, “I had to do a lot of reading and then connect it to economic history, not social history which is my forte otherwise,” she adds.

Author of books like ‘Games that we played’, ‘Remembering Goa’, ‘Tasty Morsels: Goan Food Ingredients & Preparation’ and ‘Feasts, Festivals and Observances of Goa’, Dr Maria has gifted Goa with books that Goans down memory lane. This was also advantageous for her to complete her thesis, “I have used my earlier writing as a source of documentation for my argument in the thesis. In fact, it helped me because I had it published.
I could use what I had published. These were my memories that I could use.”

Honoured with the Goa State Cultural awards in 2019 for her contribution for literature in English, Dr Maria is hoping to soon publish her thesis as a book. “I submitted my thesis for a doctorate which has been granted and I have been given a PhD by the Goa University but it is my intellectual property. I have two conference papers to write, no sooner I finish that, I will start work on publishing the book. My wish of mine to do my doctorate is finally complete,” she adds optimistically.

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