The importance of doce to Goan culture

In the village bylanes of Salcete and South Goa, there is a familiar sight of a group of Goan women in traditional attire roaming with even more traditional cooking utensils.

Following these women will lead you to a makeshift large kitchen. This place, frequented only by women, many of whom are mothers and daughter in law, has a blend of both modern and old techniques that vary from a gas powered stove to firewood and kitchen ware that used to adorn the kitchen of every household in an era gone by.

These women are preparing a Goan sweet meat called doce. Even though Christmas is a month way, they tell you that it's a custom followed at Goan weddings, this side of the River Zuari that have got them working hard and keeping them in demand.

Doce has a special place at Goan weddings too. There is a special day at the bride and groom’s place a couple of days prior to the wedding to make doce.  Relatives, friends and neighbours all come together and enjoy the process of doce making with merriment and joy.

Doce is a popular sweet prepared for various ceremonies in Goa. It is a part of a line of sweets which are made for Christmas, traditionally know as Kuswar.

"The sweet is made by stirring boiled chickpeas, ground coconut paste and sugar over a low flame adding ghee while cooking. It is best to make doce on firewood locally called chulo as you can alter the fire accordingly," explained Zeena Fernandes from Verna.

"Doce is prepared in a special utensil locally known as sotel and the chickpea, coconut and sugar paste is stirred with a special ladle locally known as dyye. While making doce, it is important that you keep stirring the paste which is soft at the beginning but keeps getting dry and stiff. The intense stirring really gives the arms a thorough workout, but it is completely worth it,” added Zeena.

The other women then spoke about other specials that are part of their recipe that make the sweet dishes irresistible and how. They have a huge demand from tourists as well, who never forget to take back at least one packet of doce with them.

They add that besides weddings and Christmas, doce is commercially available at the Goan market any time of the year.