Peter de Souza
peterdsouza@herald-goa.com
MAPUSA: Antonio Fernandes, a fourth-generation potter from Xelpem Duler-Mapusa, continues the age-old tradition of crafting clay pots and pans with his wife, Christalin. Despite the challenges in sourcing clay and the dying tradition of pottery, Antonio’s dedication to his craft and his innovative approach to using eco-friendly materials have earned him recognition.
Antonio Fernandes, now in his mid-60s, is a proud fourth-generation potter from Xelpem Duler-Mapusa, hailing from the potter’s ward known as Cumbharvaddo (‘Cumbhar’ or ‘Kumar’ means ‘potter’ in Konkani).
Antonio fondly recalls his childhood days, accompanying his great-grandparents to the fields. As a young boy, he watched them dig deep holes, almost as deep as wells, to reach the precious clay beneath the superficial, coarse mud. This laborious process took about 45 days, as hiring labour was expensive, and his great-grandparents did it all themselves. “Once the clay was extracted, it was transported home in a cart. We would sun-dry the clay at our house, then store it in a well, to use throughout the year,” he says. This clay was then transformed into bricks and moulded into various pots and pans, including the iconic ‘gurgulet’ (a rooster-shaped clay water pot used to keep water cool), ‘budkulos’ (pots), and all kinds of earthen cookware. They had a particular passion for making ‘ghumots,’ the traditional percussion instrument, which were sold at the market.
For four generations, this tradition has endured. Antonio explains that after sourcing the clay, the baking process takes three days. The clay must be moulded and baked in a hard oven, consuming a lot of firewood. On the second day, it is baked on a slow fire, and on the third day, it is baked again on a slow fire. Altogether, it is a cumbersome process.
Before people became accustomed to modern conveniences, every community used clay cookware. As time went by, new materials were introduced to the market. However, some health-conscious individuals are now returning to traditional methods of baking and cooking in earthenware. In the olden days, large quantities of dishes like Tizann and Sorpotel were prepared in clay pots or vessels, which are now often used as showpieces in five-star resorts. There is a growing market for these eco-friendly products, with people from different parts of Europe adopting this sustainable way of life.
Antonio, like his family, has always been very fond of the ‘ghumot.’ In 2019, he was felicitated by the government for being the first potter in Goa to introduce a replacement material for the ghumot. Traditionally, the ghumot is wrapped with monitor lizard skin, a rare species now protected under the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972 and banned in Goa. Antonio pioneered the use of goat skin instead, setting an example for other potters in Goa. The Department of Art and Culture recognized his efforts as a step towards environmental mindfulness.
He explains how, in the olden days, middle-class and lower households had a tradition called ‘xiro.’ On the day after a wedding, the groom’s family would visit the bride’s house. Men, often dressed as women and accompanied by the ‘madiem,’ would perform rituals to ward off the evil eye, while playing hypnotic beats on the ghumot. The money collected at the bride’s house would then be donated to a temple or local chapel. Antonio reflects, “Now we can earn our daily bread only thanks to the Hindu community who kept these traditions alive and kept us going. They purchase ghumots especially for Ganesh Chaturthi, as the drumbeats are an integral part of the aarti. What brings me more joy is that now everyone respects wildlife.”
When asked how he sources the goat skin, Antonio mentions that it comes from Dharavi in Mumbai, and is then sold in Goa.