JENIFER FERNANDES
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ALDONA: A traditional Goan cook, Paulu Fernandes, a resident of Santarxette, Aldona, has been preparing authentic dishes for over 30 years, taking small quantity orders from home and ensuring that each meal reflects Goa’s rich culinary heritage.
“My day begins with cooking and ends with it,” he says. From classic Goan dishes like beef roast, green beef, beef chilly fry, and pork stew to sweet-and-sour delicacies, Fernandes is known for his meticulous preparation and dedication to quality. He leads a small but skilled team that helps him execute orders with precision.
Before starting his cooking, Fernandes carefully curates a shopping list, ensuring that only the freshest ingredients make their way into his kitchen. He then guides his team through the entire cooking process. “Wherever I provide my cooking services, people appreciate my food, and their positive feedback is my greatest achievement. Hearing them say the food is good and tasty motivates me to do even better,” he shares.
Fernandes did not receive any formal education in catering or undergo professional training. Instead, he inherited his culinary skills from his father, a highly respected cook who served the community for nearly 80 years. As a child, Fernandes would accompany his father to cooking assignments, observing and assisting him. “Everything I am doing today is because of my father’s teachings. I believe he is blessing me from above,” he says with pride.
Coming from a family of cooks, the Fernandes household is always filled with the aroma of homemade masalas and traditional Goan dishes. Fernandes strongly believes that cooking is a gift from God, one that he has been fortunate to embrace. “Whether I cook in large or small quantities, my quality remains the same. Those who taste my food always remember who cooked it, and that, for me, is the greatest satisfaction,”
he explains.
“Earlier, people worked in the fields, cooked, or engaged in manual jobs to earn their livelihood. Government jobs were scarce, and families followed their traditional professions. Today, everyone looks for government jobs or seeks opportunities abroad for quick money. But I believe there is no such thing as easy money. Hard work is the true path to success,” he asserts.
He recalls how, in the past, celebrations were held at home with simple yet meaningful gatherings—small sound systems, a bit of dancing, and home-cooked food made the occasion special. “Nowadays, people prefer grand indoor or outdoor halls, hiring DJs and big bands, and spending large amounts of money. While cooking agencies have become more common, I stay true to my own cooking, and I am content with my work,” he says.
Despite these shifts, Fernandes has noticed that many people are returning to traditional Goan cuisine after realising the negative health effects of fast food. “Goan dishes like Samarachi Koddi, fish fry, and Shith Koddi are in high demand. Many people, after consuming fast food, realise its impact and come back to their roots. But sadly, the younger generation is showing little interest in learning Goan cooking,” he laments.
However, he remains hopeful. “Some children are taking an interest in cooking, and many are enrolling in catering courses. But I believe true cooking is learned through experience. Our ancestors never attended culinary schools; they learned by doing. A true Goan cook does not measure ingredients with scales but knows the right amount by instinct. The magic of Goan cuisine lies in our hands and taste buds,” he says.
Fernandes ensures that all his dishes are made with traditional methods. He never uses preservatives and prioritises hygiene in his kitchen. His food is in high demand for birthdays, anniversaries, communions, and family functions.
Despite the challenges of his profession, Fernandes finds great joy in his work. “Cooking is hard work. Preparing food sometimes requires staying up all night to ensure everything is ready for the next day. Standing near the fire, handling the heat, and maintaining safety are all part of the job. But when I see people enjoying my food, all the effort is worth it,” he says.
After catering an event, he and his team are often the last ones to leave. “The food counter is the last to close, sometimes as late as 1 AM. We also make sure everything is cleaned up before heading home,” he shares.
Many who taste his food return with more orders and recommend him to others. “I have never regretted choosing cooking over an office job. I studied up to Std X and started helping my father during my school days. Today, I am happy and grateful that God has blessed me to continue this work,” he says.
With a life dedicated to serving his community through food, Fernandes remains steadfast in his mission. “Cooking is my joy, my passion, and my way of life. As long as I have the strength, I will continue to cook and share my food with the people of my village and beyond.”
In the spotlight
Beyond cooking, Fernandes has a deep passion for acting and writing short dramas. He has written and performed seven plays during Christmas celebrations at his local church. “My father was involved in Khell Tiatr, and I have inherited his love for drama. I would love to stage more plays, but financial constraints make it difficult,” he admits.
His love for storytelling and performance is another way in which he keeps Goan culture alive, blending his culinary artistry with his theatrical talent.
