Temple architecture of Goa – I

His keen interest and work in preservation and conservation of natural, cultural and built heritage make him one of the youngest historians in Goa. Through his weekly column, Prajal will write about how heritage is not only about history but also how to keep it contemporary

Goa showcases a large number of temples even as far as Shigao
where one of the first evidences of a cave temple dedicated to Vaghro (tiger worship)
can be seen on the Dudhsagar river bed. We see ancient cave temples in
Khandepar, Paroda hill, Netravalli, Narve, Kundai, Surla-tar and several other
places. Architecturally, these temples are simple, carved out of red laterite
and do not have ornamental value. But their antiquity is important. Our
pre-historic or proto-historic cultures worshipped the forces of nature and
thus, the five elements of nature as well as the fauna became the object of
worship.

The Bhoj Kings who ruled ancient Goa between 4th to the 6th
Century AD built a cave temple dedicated to their family deity Chandreshwar on
the Paroda hill. From a cave temple, it graduated to become a full fledged
temple.

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Some of the oldest temples of Goa are the 11th Century Nandi
temple in Chandor built by Kadamb Kings, Ishwar Maheshwar temple complex in
Solye-Canacona, Curdi-Mahadev temple of 10th century Kadamba era in
Xelpem-Salaulim, Narayandeo temple in Vichundrem, Betal temple at Khede-Quepem,
Saptakoteshwar temple at Opa of the Kadamb era, the famous Mahadev temple in
Tambdi Surla dating to 1175-76 AD, and others.

The Mahadev temple in Tambdi Surla located on the banks of Ragada
river in Dharbandoda is a classic example of 12th century Kadamb architecture.
Though smaller in size as compared to temples in South India, the Mahadev
temple built by the Kadamb Queen Kamladevi is a beautiful architectural wonder
of Goa. It is a perfect blend of Yadav-Hoysala-Chyalukyan-Kadamb style of
architecture. Resting on a star shaped Hoysala style plinth, it showcases
Kadamb style motifs such as floral patterns, diamond shaped lozenges,
perforated screen doorway of the vestibule, images of gods and goddesses on the
capital and walls, the ashtadal kamal and exquisitely designed pillars in the
kalyanmandap. All these features make this thousand year-old temple a classic
example of heritage architecture. The above mentioned temples were saved from
the Portuguese Inquisition era in the 16th and 17th centuries when the zeal of
conservations and iconoclastic was at its peak. The notorious Inquisition
ordered the destruction of temples and hence when this news reached the
devotees, they fled with their respective deities to places outside the
Portuguese domain. For example, the Mangesh of Kutthali or Kushasthali (Cortalim)
was shifted to Hadiye-Priol in November 1560, Shantadurga from Kelshi to Kavlem
in 1567, Mhalsa from Verna to Mardol in 1560, Kamakshi from Rai to Shiroda,
Vijaydurga from Sancoale to Keri, Laxmi Narasimha from Sancoale to Veling,
Devki-Krishna from Chodan to Mashel, Ramnath from Loutulim to Bandoda, Navdurga
from Gaunxi to Madkai and Kundai and several other deity temples were shifted
to the Antruz Mhal (Ponda taluka) which was then under the Adilshah rule with
the Sardesais as the chieftains of these places. 

…to be continued.

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