The earliest memory that one possesses of raw mango, is that
of the local ‘auntie’. Every school had them, squatting with their basket in
tow, at the edge of the educational premises, waiting for the recess bell to
ring, so that could open the basket to feed the swarm of children that would
flock to them to be fed. The aunties would then slice, with a surgeon’s
precision, the mango open and then sprinkle the same with chilli powder and
salt, before wrapping it in very ragged looking newspaper that would serve as
the protector of the delights within, until it’s new owner found a place to
savour it in peace.
Joaquina Matos has spent the last 40 years toiling in the
Margao market. Over this time, she has seen its premises relocate several times
over, all the while selling local produce, and at a given time of year, raw
mango. “For generations now, people queue up to buy ‘tor’ (Konkani for raw
mango). This is then sundried and used, pickled either with local spices as
‘lonchem’ or just brine and served as ‘chepni’ and eaten alongside ‘kanji’, or
just added to dishes as is. Either way, when raw mango season comes around, I
have many happy faces in droves lining up to get their fix of the unripened
fruit,” she says.
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Keeping the trader’s market aside, raw mango serves a whole
host of culinary purposes, beginning with those of home-chefs. A much elated
Elizabeth Monteiro of Borda points out that there is a vast difference in her
everyday kitchen during the season for the fruit. “Quite frankly, the same
dishes with and without the addition of raw mango are not quite appreciated in
the same manner. My curry, with that
additional piece of mango to give it that sour punch, is met with a completely
different kind of enthusiasm,” she says.
Experts in their field also add their point of view. Vandana
Naik, who has carved a niche for herself in the baking sector with her café,
Cantina Bodega says “While I might not ordinarily use it for baking, due to its
tart nature, I find that the same taste can be highlighted in certain ways. For
instance, an aam panna can be an ideal drink to beat the summer heat. In
similar vein, I find that the unique taste of raw mango gives salads a lift.
Lastly, I recommend roasting chicken and raw mango alongside each other. It is
incredibly flavoursome.”
So whether your need is to sit back and sip your aam panna,
or smack your lips to take away the sting of the chilli powder of that sliver
of raw mango you just bit into, revel in the few weeks of the Crown Prince’s
arrival, because coronation season will soon be upon us, and with it the King
in all his glory.
