All streets in Goa lead to Shirgao. The Lairai zatra has commenced and will be the
focus of all attention for the next five days. This year it is even more
important because after two years it will be held with the large crowds that
usually make it such a unique occasion.
The festival known as the Lairai dhondachi
zatra usually occurs around the months of April or May each year. In keeping
with the syncretic urban legend in this area of Velha Goa, the goddess Lairai
is considered as a “sister of the Milagris Saibinn (Virgin Mary) in the
Milagres Church of Mapusa, some 20 km (12 mi) or so away from the area. The
village is estimated to have 350 houses, 70 wells and 32 springs. But the area
faces a water shortage due to rampant mining nearby. On the night of the zatra,
an estimated 20,000 dhonds—men and women from diverse parts of Goa and the
nearby Konkan region,walk through the homkhan, over a burning charcoal bed.
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Shrigao has shrines dedicated to a number of deities (14,
according to one count) including Santer, Mahamaya, Ravalnath, Mahadev,
Grampurush, Kshetrapal, Aapevans, Kulkar, Brahman, Homkhandi, Purush, Lakhamo,
Aairo and Mharingan, of whom the goddess Lairai, considered to be an
incarnation of goddess Parvati is treated with particular reverence.
In what is considered a very important part of the celebrations,
in the early hours of the morning when the fire has died down, the raking of
the coals begins. The devotees await their turn to walk on the holy path of hot
coals. Around 4 a.m., the actual ritual starts, with the devotees running
through the hot coals carrying their sticks and shouting the name of Devi
Lairai. As the crowd watches in stunned silence, some devotees do the ‘hot run’
once, others do it several times. Those who have finished their run, then
remove and throw their flower garlands onto a nearby banyan tree and return
home. The zatra reaches its conclusion as the sun rises in the distant hills.
Prajal
Sakhardande, Professor of History in Dhempe College and a heritage activist
said the festival was important because of the people who were in a trance who
were known as a Dhond. The main highlight he said was that of people walking
through the embers at 3 am whilst in a trance. Being in a trance he said and
walking through the embers was unique to this zatra and every devotee did it
and it was mandatory. The goddess is one of seven sisters who settled in
various parts of the state in ancient times. Another aspect he said was the use
of mogra or the jasmine flower in the garland offered to the Lairai by all
devotees. He ended by saying devotees came over from all over the state to
attend the zatra.
