Many people have become urbanised over
the years, yet have their roots in some of Goa’s villages. The substantial
expansion of the cities that have expanded their borders is proof of this, with
not many returning to their points of origin too often. However, the memories
of these same people are steeped with village influences; from the tinto buzz to that taboo
liquor-centric smell of the local tavern that emanates as you walk past, to the
meeting of all and sundry at Sunday mass… it’s all there in the village. One of
the most important memories though, is that of the village café or local
bakery, which for all practical purposes feeds most people within its
boundaries, from the quick nibbles to the village feasts. Some of the few that
should absolutely not be missed include the likes of:
Snows Cafeteria (Curtorim)
Snows has been the place that has called to many over the years, in the village
of Curtorim. It is ideally located right behind the Church of St Alex, patron
of the village, allowing many church-goers to pop in for a quick bite after.
One sees all sorts, of all ages, gather here, as the bakery has formed many
memories in the tinto, for old
timers from the village and the generation currently in its 30s-40s, who will
recollect their childhood days having linkage there, most likely involving
their legendary cream cones.
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Menino Jesus Snack & Juice Centre
(Colva)
Over time, this
little haunt has gotten its ‘cool’ vibe, and like many other things in Goa, it
has gotten abbreviated to MJ. Their food is outstanding. From dainty little
snacks to larger bites, the café has much to offer. Their signature dish is
their club sandwich, which is made in two variants: chicken and beef. Stacks of
these are lined up every morning, and replenished throughout the course of the
day.
St Lawrence Bakery in Goa (Agassaim)
St Lawrence Bakery
is one of the sad victims of ‘development’. Prior to the construction of the
bypass that links Agassaim with Goa Velha, it was situated smack bang in the
middle of the ‘highway’, that ran right through the village, which is now
merely an alternative route for people commuting between North and South Goa.
It occupies a place of fair prominence in the heart of the village tinto, or marketplace, and once upon a
time, dished out the most heart-warming local sausage croissants, which they
still do, albeit sporadically. This dish seems only fitting, given that
Agassaim holds a place of honour when it comes to the local choris.
Jila Bakery (Ambora)
Smack in-between Raia and Loutolim lies
the tiny village of Ambora, and Jila Bakery could well be the jewel in its
crown. With fandom that extends to the likes of Sachin Tendulkar, Naseeruddin
Shah and Orhan Pamuk (as the bakery patrons state), Jila Bakery is undoubtedly
doing things right. Indira Gandhi herself was such a fan of their ‘Fan
Biscuits’ (if you’ll pardon the pun) that she would order them all the way from
Goa, from where they were sent to her, via her lawyer in Bombay. While Jila has
been lauded for its éclairs, I think that they have been overselling their
signature, which though it is good, leaves its better companions behind. Jila’s
apple strudel is par excellence, as are its Geneva Pastry, Melting Moments and
Mille Feuille. However, my personal favourite from the bakery is none other
than its seemingly modest Butter Caramel Cashew Nut Cake. It seems to be a very
unassumingly pound cake of sorts, with a few finely chopped bits of cashew nuts
in the batter.
Crumbs (Curtorim)
Crumbs is the
newer kid on Curtorim’s block, which is oddly enough, next door to Snows
Cafeteria. However, Crumbs is more modern than your regular village café and
could well fit into the urban scape, should it so choose. Its abstract tiled
wall is entertainment enough, with much detailing to take in over a cup of tea.
However, from pricing, down to mouthfuls of nostalgia, it certainly has its
heart in the village, with beef and egg patties that can set the bar for the
state.
