Our Feni-tastic heritage

Feni is no longer just a drink. It's a heritage spirit Café speaks to a few lovers of this true Goan spirit and finds out why we should be raising a toast

Chief Minister Laxmikant Parsekar, who has had a rather unique ‘love-hate’ relationship with the people of Goa ever since he has taken charge of the state, triggered waves of cheer among Goans with his statement in the Legislative Assembly yesterday. During his budget speech, Parsekar said, “Feni, a brew made from coconut or cashew, is synonymous with the Goan ethos and identity. Feni has achieved first geographical indication (GI) in Goa and is also the first liquor product in the country to obtain that status. It finds its uses in various cultural traditions and cuisines, and is also famed for its medicinal use. This being the case, Feni should not have been categorised as country liquor as it is presently defined under the Goa Excise Duty Act, 1964.” The CM further proposed to give Feni its rightful and deserving status by declaring it as the heritage spirit of Goa.
Reacting to this news, Mac Vaz – President, Goa Cashew Feni Distillers And Bottlers Association, says, “It is ironic that we Indians generally wake up to the potential of our assets only when we lose them. A classic example is the ‘Kohinoor’. This appreciation happens only after our assets are infringed or appreciated by the West, like Ayurveda, Yoga and Basmati rice. I am happy that our government has finally been proactive to the potential of Feni and is adding synergy to its protection and promotion. I think our government and especially our Excise Commissioner need to be applauded for this proactive rung up in the journey of Feni.”
Goa has always loved its Feni. The state’s association with Feni goes long back in time and almost every aspect of this drink has been cherished by Goans ever since. Perhaps it is this observation that has prompted many hospitality brands to cash in on the opportunity by creating events keeping Feni at the centre-stage. Situated in the southern part of the state, Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa has made it an annual affair to celebrate all things Feni in a rather unique way. General Manager Shobhit Sawhney says, “Cashew Trail is an annual event that was conceptualised by us in association with Madame Rosa Distillery in 2012, that traces the life journey of the cashew. Through Cashew Trail we showcase not only the cashew fruit but also the Urrack and the Feni. To make each guest’s experience culturally and locally authentic, we are infusing cultural traditions from the local community into each experience by curating exclusive concierge experiences for our in-house guests to cashew farms to experience how the cashew fruit is picked, stomped and distilled; in fact, they can watch the entire distillation process.”
Another key stakeholder, Hansel Vaz – Brand Creator and Promoter of Cazulo Premium Feni, shares his thoughts on the recent development: “This very bold and forward thinking move by our government is a result of a lot of behind the scenes efforts involving multiple departments and the Feni association. What is exciting for me is that they have looked at Feni holistically and not just at the product.” On a parting note, Hansel Vaz says, “The need to create a Feni policy that works, supports and mentors distillers, bottlers and consumers is long overdue and will go a long way into giving Feni some standing.”

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