A quintessential narrative in any of the popular competitive cooking reality shows is the moment
a contestant serves a dish that reflects their roots; something close to home.
Everyone watching immediately wants to know how it tastes; there’s a sense of
curiosity that’s instantly created and the chef usually gets this right. In the
film ‘The Hundred-Foot Journey’ that stars the likes of Helen Mirren and Om
Puri, actors Manish Dayal and Charlotte Le Bon weave a story that hones on this
beautifully, celebrating a regional food culture. As a chef, Dayal’s character,
Hassan, is highly influenced by his roots and his use of spices in his
signature dishes makes him a young rising chef in a foreign land.
There’s a similar story closer to home but
it isn’t fictional; it is the life of Goan born and bred Chef Rahul Gomes
Pereira aka Chef Picu, who’s rubbing shoulders with the best in the industry in
Delhi, where his Goan themed idea has stood out.
Last month, ‘Jamun’, a regional Indian ‘fun-dine’ restaurant in
New Delhi, introduced zesty flavours of Goa in the summer with a Goan Brunch by
Executive Chef Picu. “Jamun, as a concept, celebrates Indian regional cuisine
and its diversity. Our aim is to bring the best of every region to our patrons.
Goan cuisine with its beautiful blend of flavours, spices, vinegars and meat,
made for a perfect brunch experience, says an official representative, in
response to queries about what led to this concept, adding that Chef Picu was
extremely excited to introduce Delhi to not only Goa’s beautiful food but also
its culture. Some of the Goan dishes from their current menu, like the Chicken
Xacuti, Pork Vindaloo and their house-baked Poi breads, are already
a huge hit with their diners. The summer heat also made it the perfect time to
sip on some chilled beer and enjoy some rawa fried prawns. Jamun also curated a
special cocktail experience using Paul John Single Malts and Kings Beer. What
added to the charm and vibe was the Goan dress code and décor.
“The brunch was extremely successful and we can confidentially
say that Delhi experienced Goa like never before; we had the seafood flown in
fresh from the Andamans the night prior to ensure just that,” adds the official
representative.
Chef Picu further elaborates on his
strong Goan influences and culinary concepts: “Home and home food have always
been a large influence in my style of food and cooking. Goa has two very
diverse cuisines – the Portuguese influenced catholic food and the Saraswat
style of Goan food. Both these styles are unique and require precision and
technique. On the Jamun menu, we have tried to incorporate both.”
When asked about his latest tribute to
his homeland and how he prepared the perfect recipe, he says that he focuses on
“utilising Goan flavours and turning them on their heads”.
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“I always focus on the use of
ingredients rather than the dish itself. Apart from the favourites (mentioned
earlier), I use kokum, which is one of my favourite Goan ingredients, to
prepare Kokum Pooris, ragi to make Nachni and sea salt chips and poi
to make poi crisps,” he explains.
In
2016, Chef Picu became the Executive Chef of À Ta Maison (ATM), New Delhi and
quickly made the restaurant one of the most talked about dining venues in the
city. His menu is a mix of seasonal recipes featuring fresh local produce and
signature dishes such as his delightful home-made tagliatelle with
morels and home-smoked chorizo buns. The clean, bold flavours and the
beautifully plated dishes have won him sincere praise from not only patrons but
critics as well, including being Vir Sanghvi’s choice of best European
restaurant in the capital.
At
the helm of the exciting restaurant concept, Jamun, in Lodhi Colony market,
Chef Picu has curated a menu of authentic regional recipes that celebrate the
best of Indian food, all served up in a healthful and wholesome way. He has
been praised by many legends in the culinary world like Chef Alan Passard and
others. Though he is just 26, a series of exciting stints in some of the finest
International and nation-wide kitchens have led him to where he is today: Executive
Chef at two unique award-winning establishments, the modern-European Bistro
& Private Member’s Club À Ta Maison, and the newly launched Jamun.
Another
feather in his hat is the time he was selected to represent India at the World
Skills Leipzig, an international culinary competition held in Germany. He also
represented India to compete at the international level in Australia. While
competing, he worked in these countries, ensuring that he learned new, emerging
culinary trends and gained an understanding of the local cuisine. A motto he
truly believes in is that dirty chef coats don’t mean that you work harder; it
just shows how messy you are.
