However, to be perfectly
honest, the establishment is sometimes found wanting. There will be areas where
it may score 10/10, and in contrast, there will be areas where it may score 1;
a disparity that I find less jarring in the northern half of the state. A
conversation with a friend a while ago led us to discuss one of Margao’s more
popular haunts, and said friend (who works in the highest echelons of the
hospitality trade, mind you) pointed out that while the food in itself wasn’t
bad, it was the quality of the furniture, tableware and the service that was
enough to attribute a negative score.
My belief is that the south has better home cooks, better
street food, certainly better taverns that cook wondrous local cuisine and most
importantly, greater character. But by and large, if you’re looking at an
impressive evening out, with a significant other, you aren’t really spoilt for
choice. Last weekend, I discovered one establishment that contradicts that
theory: Bistro at Alila Diwa Goa. Now I would like to offer my very own
disclaimer at this juncture. I am not a fan of the food at Alila Diwa Goa, by
and large. While their restaurant, Spice Studio, churns out some amazing food,
they function only at night, so the lunch service is restricted to other
restaurants which are average at best. However, cue Bistro’s entrance as it
swoops in to quite possibly be the highlight of the property.
This fateful day, I entered a part of the property that I
had not seen before, and was introduced to a stellar luncheon, courtesy Chef
Mrunal Dhamaskar. Humble, yet possessing a near child-like sense of wonder,
this local boy from Mapusa has come good, beyond measure. The end product that
he puts on a plate is food that is good enough to be mixing it up with the best
of them. But enough of singing his praises. Let us get on to the food.
As he let us settle in, he first sent out an amuse-bouche comprising compressed
watermelon, with a feta toffee, on a bed of edible sand. As we watched in
wonder, before even contemplating eating what lay before us (which turned out
to be very interesting, as the last flavour that anyone ever associates with
feta, is sweet) he had reappeared with our first course.
He first brought with him country style farm fresh mushroom
bruschetta, with pomegranate mint chutney. To be honest, while delivering
exactly what you would expect from a bruschetta: elegant rusticity, this dish
paled in comparison, when placed alongside its companions; not because it was
disappointing in itself, but because the others were so much better. I love
salmon. And when someone says that they are about to serve you local
lemongrass-cured Atlantic salmon, with some cucumber, radish and lemon zest
cream, you can’t help but feel happy about it. This dish honestly reminds me of
something I once heard about scallops, something to the effect of how you can
literally taste the sea in every mouthful, because that is what this dish
delivers; little bits of the Atlantic. However, as a part of the course, this
was still pale in comparison to what was my favourite dish of the afternoon,
the duck liver parfait, with pear chutney, pickled cornichons, white wine jelly
and melba toast. Perhaps it’s just that I like liver paté, but there is
something about the marriage between the white wine jelly and the flavour of
the liver that blends perfectly with the chutney and the cornichons. It is to
die for.
And before there was even any room to breathe, Mrunal had
returned yet again, this time with tulsi-rubbed fish saltimbocca, with organic
new potato. While the dish is great in itself, and you can’t beat a surf and
turf combination with fish wrapped in bacon, I think that perhaps the dish
would be better represented by a fish other than what appeared to be bassa. But
then again, bassa too has its fans, and apart from that, the dish is stellar.
Glancing through the menu, I quickly realised that the chef loves working with
flavours that are close to home, and fish is something that appears to be close
to his heart. The pan fried snapper, with beetroot puree, braised fennel, baby
onions and parsley oil is testament to that, and if you like the lingering
taste of sweetness coupled with salt, this dish is a must, as both the heroes
on it, the beetroot as well as the snapper, vie for equal attention. Last but
not least on the main course segment, is the one dish that could perhaps have
rivalled my attention when it came to the duck parfait: the braised pork belly,
with star anise, caramelised gastric onions, roasted garlic pumpkin purée and
pork reduction. This dish should be a property signature, marketed to all and
sundry, it’s that good, simply put. Applesauce has proven over time, that pork
works well with sweetness but the elements on this dish take it to a completely
different level.
When it comes to dessert, trust me, ditch the myriad options
on the menu, and order with absolute faith and confidence, the fresh berries
mille-feuille. With crisp layered pastry that are interspersed with a near
Chantilly-like cream and a berry sorbet on the side, this offering is decadent
and opulent, all at once.
The bottom line is, Bistro is the one-stop shop, if you’re
looking at the fine-dining segment in the south. If you have any qualms as to
what the accuracy of that statement is, go in, order any of the above, and call
me afterwards, if you can still quibble.
