I love springs and can recall all the fresh water springs I used to visit for family picnics and excursions as a child. My grandmother and all the seniors back then, would love to indulge in an annual dip in the sea water and visit a nearby spring to ease aches and pains. They would say that the water was magical. Or medicinal. It’s the minerals that were curative. We would use the yellow clays at Kesarval spring or the reddish one at other springs and have a fun time, little knowing that it was working its magic on us.
I love taking children, students and mixed groups to the springs of my childhood. There is so much biodiversity and history to learn about and experience.
One fascinating vestige of history and the largest spring in Goa is the Curca spring. I had read about it nearly a decade ago and was keen to visit it. I finally had a chance to see it on an impromptu excursion with my children and friends. It appeared freshly cleared but was in complete abandonment. However most of its spaces were accessible.
There is written reference that this spring at Curca was built by the Goan Jews. The Jews came to Indian subcontinent in the fifth century as merchants and there are largely around 7 groups of Jews that settled across in the region- in Cochin, Madras, Bombay, Surat, Delhi, Karachi and Goa. The Jews were also displaced from Europe much later during World War II and moved to many parts of the world including India during that time. It is said the inquisition in Portugal and then in Goa is also the reason for the Jews to move to other locations.
The Jews in Goa had a synagogue at Siridao behind the Jesus of Nazareth Chapel. In Old Goa too, there is a reference of the street of the Jews (Rua dos Judeus), which is located near the Santa Monica Convent, and there was also a ritual bath within the St Augustine’s Church complex.
In the Curca village, the road leading to the spring has a small hamlet which is very quaint with small houses built shoulder to shoulder. The houses built with local laterite stone and mud have a uniquely decorated tulsi in the forecourt. A little further, at the end of the main street, there is a mud path that goes up the hillock to the Curca waterfall and just before the waterfall, on the right hand side is this beautiful man made spring.
At the lower levels along the path, there is a laterite walled structure that encloses the spring outlet. The original granite gargoyle or spout from where the spring water flows out may be found around the spring along with others that have come loose over time and neglect. The pipe jutting out from the laterite wall has sparkling fresh water gushing out all through the year. It flows down into an orchard and into the wetlands and saline backwaters further down.
There is a narrow path and steps that leads up to the main doorway that opens into a large platform on top. From here, you can see distinctly 3 semi-circular vaults, with an inner wall deeper inside with small arched openings. Behind this wall, all one can see is a large rock from where springs seems to break through. Above the 3 vaults, there is a viewing gallery which is accessible from either side of the central pool and parallel underground channels.
The channels intermittently have square openings at the top from where one can peep into the water channels.
These lead into the lower level public bath along the waterfall pathway. Around the central pool all built in granite stone, the walls have series of arched niches. The entire laterite structure of the spring is plastered with shell lime. The soffit of the vaults has rectangular relief work done in lime plaster.
The spring is an asset to the village. It is also an asset to the state as it is the largest built spring in Goa.
The spring has a lot of significance from the perspective of water security and water conservation. However, because of piped water supply, many springs in Goa remain unutilized and polluted with garbage strewn around. Often times, the water is also polluted because of seepage of sewage water from nearby septic tanks and soak pits built with no regards to safe distances mandated by the local body. The hillock has lots of old indigenous forest trees. The roots help the rainwater to percolate into the ground and into its aquifers, which feed the spring, a perennial source of water. A small reservoir and check dams along its lower area can help better conserve its water. Then every village can be self-sufficient.
Both the waterfall and spring are at the mercy of visitors that leave a trail of garbage, beer bottles and plastic wrappers.
How should we protect and benefit from these valuable assets?
Many years ago, a Norwegian researcher Ivar Fjeld had written about the spring and its Jewish origins. He approached the local body and collectively tried to help restore it. Local conservation architects also helped preparing a plan for its restoration. But all these efforts have not seen the light of day.
Today there is an urgent need to restore this gem for posterity in the wake of water wars and loss of biodiversity amidst the rampant ravaging of Goa in the guise of development.
Do you care for this magic water, springs of life?
(Tallulah D’Silva is an Architect and silver awardee of the Golden Door Award 2020 for truth and integrity)
