THE WONDER BREW

Before the 16th century, wine was a popular trade product in Europe. In the early 16th century, a Dutch trader shipped more wine in the restricted cargo space by removing water from the beverage. The concentrated wine had water added back at the destination port in Holland. They named it “brandewijn”, meaning “burned wine”, which later became “brandy”.

Although any fruit can make brandy, people traditionally made it from early grapes to achieve higher acidity. Therefore, based on the region and the fruit, we can divide brandy into Cognac, Armagnac, American Brandies, and fruit brandies.

People have enjoyed brandy over the centuries as a cocktail and cooking ingredient. During World War II, people in London made wine out of cabbage leaves and carrot peels, which they subsequently distilled to produce what must have been a genuinely vile form of brandy.

In days of yore, brandy was prepared only as a medicine and considered as possessing such marvelous strengthening and sanitary powers that the physicians named it “the water of life”. Believed to ward off everything from pneumonia to plague, it became a medicine. Ellagic acid and phytonutrient present in brandy also help in the metabolism of cancer cells.

Science proves that 30ml of brandy per day brings a similar benefit as your daily dose of vitamin C. Like wine and whisky, Brandy is often aged in wooden barrels or oak casks, which increase its complexity and colour intensity. In England, mine owners gave a glass of drink to workers at the shift end to provide relief from the cold. Workers called it “Precious Evening Glass” or just “PEG”.

During my childhood days, I recall my maternal grandfather, M Dharmalingam, extolling the virtues of brandy. A spoonful of the ‘wonder brew’ mixed with half a glass of milk helped drive away a running nose or a persistent cough. The age-old therapy worked like a charm, and we would recover from the ailment in double-quick time. Sometimes, a mixture of brandy and a few drops of honey helped ward off a cough successfully.

Our maternal grandfather, an ex-army officer, had his cabinet well stocked with liquor, including the famed doctor’s brandy. Since he lived close to our residence, accessing the ‘medicine’ was more accessible. It was a time-tested remedy that seldom failed, besides doing away with the need to visit a doctor.

In the old days, the family physician also prescribed brandy with medicines. The doctors also advised pregnant women and nursing mothers to imbibe the liquor on a chilly night to warm the insides. The ‘doctor’s brandy’ was a permanent feature in many a household, as it had a variety of benefits. While many think alcohol is harmful, brandy has several virtues. Closer home in Goa, we have two famous brandies – Cashew Feni and Coconut Feni. Both are Goa’s heritage drinks and are a big draw with the locals and tourists who flock to the State. Feni got the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2009. 

A shot of brandy can boost the immune system, induce sleep, reduce weight and cholesterol levels, prevent wrinkles and other ageing symptoms, besides helping lower the blood pressure and preventing cardiovascular problems. Using brandy in the culinary world in making cakes, puddings, butter and pan sauces and perk up the flavours of soups is well known. Cheers to the good old brandy.

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