History chieseled in stone

Amongst several interesting topics that were discussed at the ‘Heritage Hour’, was about how tourism infrastructure development around Old Goa should be sensitive and reverent to the important heritage sites in that area.

The Heritage Hour was organised by the Museum of Christian Art (MoCA) & Goa Heritage Action Group (GHAG), an initiative that has been praised by many.

The theme of programme that was conducted online on a Zoom platform this time was titled, ‘Goa: Complex Past, Diverse Future.’

Tahir Noronha, architect and urban researcher who is associated with the Charles Correa Foundation was one of the speakers at the programme.

Tahir meticulously covered the history of Goa, breaking it down into various eras beginning with the time between 1510-1700 when the Portuguese monarchy and the Church pushed a certain agenda and architectural form. At the end of that spectrum, he expressed concern about the present concretisation of Old Goa that has invariably had an effect on the heritage structures.

Speaking about what could be done in the future, Tahir touched upon the role UNESCO and Goan Diaspora can play; he also explained the mandate of the central government via the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI); and what the State government as well as local organisations can do.

Regarding UNESCO, he gave instances of concerned citizens writing to UNESCO in the past, not just in Goa but also in other parts of the world and how UNESCO do not protect heritage sites but only promote these heritage sites.

The role of protecting the sites lies with the State and Central government and UNESCO recognises their sovereignty.

However, as an audience member, Professor Edgar Ribeiro pointed out, when UNESCO threatened to withdraw the status of a World Heritage Site to monuments in Hampi, the government immediately responded to the situation and worked to restore these monuments as UNESCO’s tag is a matter of great pride to them. Tahir gave the example of a similar situation in Oman, and said UNESCO can continue to monitor and promote heritage sites in Goa but the onus lies on the government and bodies like the ASI.

He explained how politics and developments of under the Portuguese rule has affected Old Goa, such as the Pombaline approach to city planning and the expulsion of the religious orders, which led to the eventual decline of its status as the capital city of Goa in 1834; and the changes done to buildings like the Basilica of Bom Jesus and Arch of Viceroy, by António de Oliveira Salazar in the 1950s.

He then brought in the complexities involving the ASI, who took over an unplastered Basilica in 1963 and as per their mandate, have to preserve the building in the form they took it over.

“It appears that the view of the experts, church and people of Goa is for plastering the Basilica to preserve it. But it is a complicated process and it will really need someone to shake up the whole system within the ASI to make this happen. Here the NRIs too can play a role in creating awareness and also with funds needed for such an exercise,” said Noronha.

Speaking about the immediate surroundings of these heritage sites, which cannot be actively intervened by the State government as per the prevailing laws, he said the State cannot just wash its hands because the Central government is supposed to maintain these sites.

The discussion had referred to how the State had earmarked RS 100 crore in the budget for promoting tourism around Old Goa.

“Instead, the State can focus on the surroundings of Old Goa and not just the radius of 100 to 300 metres which is protected by law, but the entirety village till the border of Panjim. The State government can ensure that whatever is happening around the monuments, in terms of development, is also in sync with the monuments, and sustainable development” Noronha added.

He stressed through his presentation that one doesn’t have to look to the West for ideas on heritage conservation, he pointed out a few success stories in India. One example was how the Aga Khan Development Network (AKDN) has been working on Urban renewal projects in Delhi at the Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti. This project combines conservation with a major socioeconomic development effort that is implemented through a community-centred, collaborative approach. 

“Goa has the capability. There are so many local businesses doing sustainable tourism. There are also NGOs and groups that can bring people together. The government can work with a lot of these groups and put up a consolidated effort towards devising an overall framework in this regard,” he added.

Speaking about the last 15 years or so, he showed a video reel of Google Earth images that show how much Old Goa has changed in that time, given the number of houses and buildings that have come up and the natural water drainage channels have been blocked off. Google Earth has data of the 1980s too to show the conditions in that time.

“The State government needs to stand up and regulate the development in a sustainable manner,” Tahir added.

On a final note, when it came to question and answers from the audience, an observation was made how Old Goa doesn’t have only influences of the West but can be compared as a melting point of Western and Eastern influences. When an audience member wanted to know if there was any Indian influence that has gone to the West, heritage activist Heta Pandit spoke about the architectural art form of Kaavi found in Goa and the Konkan coast, a form of etching rendered on walls of temples and Hindu homes which has found itself in Spain, Portugal and beyond as Sgraffito.