MAPUSA: In an era where younger generations lean away from traditional fare and favour modern fast foods like pizza, burgers, and biryani, Bhalchandra, fondly known as Dada, stands as a beacon of tradition. Sweet-maker Bhalchandra Shambha Pokle, 76, from Dattawadi-Mapusa, is a familiar face at local fairs, manning his small business ‘Pokle Sweet Mart’, which has flourished over three generations and is now poised to be handed over to the fourth.
For over a century, the Pokle family has contributed to the Goan community through their traditional sweet-making craft. No religious feast fair is complete without the effervescent smile of Bhalchandra at his stall selling khajem, kaddio boddio, ladoos, halwa, manna, etc. Bhalchandra’s grandfather initiated the business over a century ago, crafting festive sweets that became an integral part of religious feasts and celebrations.
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Despite the passage of time, Pokle Sweet Mart remains committed to its roots, first preparing sweets at home and setting up stalls to sell them. Despite facing challenges like decreased sales and haggling customers, Bhalachandra says he has no regrets, and is content with his slice of life.
Balachandra reminisces about the early days when family members worked together, and hiring labour was out of the question.
“ My uncle and my father took over the business after my grandfather’s death. My father passed away when I was still a young boy and I grew up learning this job with my uncle, who was a noble soul and was ever willing to guide me, to sustain our family legacy” he says. Now, after 40 years at the helm, Bhalchandra observes a waning interest among the younger generation to carry on the business. While his sons do help him at times, Pokle believes that factors such as rising labour costs and bureaucratic hurdles may deter them from running the sweet mart after him. “Be it zatras, church feasts or chapel feasts all over Bardez, I have covered them all in the last four decades,” he says. When he was younger, Pokle would even go for the Old Goa and Panjim Church feasts, but his advanced age has slowed him down, and so he limits himself to Bardez and sometimes, Pernem.
“We are a community that only moves around for zatras and feasts; we have no fixed place in Mapusa market or any market. The only Mapusa MLA who supported us and ensured we get a place to set up our stall in the market was Shyamsunder Neogi who was a passionate man ready to help all kinds of people. He made sure that I, and other sweet makers like me, were given a fixed place to sell my sweets in the market – but after his demise we were thrown out and now we have become like a vagabond community,” he quips.
Despite these challenges, Pokle Sweet Mart continues to grace most religious festivities across Bardez, reflecting the enduring spirit of communal harmony in Goa. Bhalchandra acknowledges the Catholic community’s contribution to his livelihood, as their frequent feasts keep his business thriving year-round. Balachandra credits his ability to persevere at his age to a higher power, recognising the interconnectedness of religious traditions in fostering social cohesion.
