There really is no place like home. Many people remain divided on how attached they could, would or should be to it, but really, when it comes down to it, there is an innate desire to return to one’s roots at some level. Chefs are no different, and Goa has produced some great ones over time. Many of these see the potential to grow by moving abroad, and almost just as many see equal value in returning to a place that is still developing its palate, to aid in the same process.
Vasco Alvares is a household name in cuisine in the state of Goa. From flagship restaurants to being the friendly neighbourhood barbecue man, he has pretty much done it all in his field. However, the expertise that is being lent as a labour of love is not one that is readily found, with Vasco having cut his teeth overseas for long stretches of time, before he could return home to work on known soil. “I worked on the Carnival Cruise Lines for a total of five years. During my time there, I covered all sections across the board, and learnt almost everything I know there under different chefs from different countries. I also picked up various styles of cuisine from all the Caribbean Islands and from the different people working on-board the ship with me. I came back to Goa mainly because I had gotten married, and also because I always wanted to start something of my own. I always had ideas and when I returned, I did so with experiences too. My cooking is primarily a fusion of all my experiences and local flavours. I always loved Goa and never wanted to leave. After coming back and working on a couple of Goan food festivals, I found the absolute need to promote and study Goan food. I am extremely interested in the history of Goan food and the importance of protecting our unique cuisine,” he shares.
In similar vein, Avinash Martins is a chef who moved out of Goa, but returned, because he had a vision; a dream of making Goa a destination for great food. “I started my career with the Oberoi School before working in their hotels in Mumbai, New Delhi, Bangalore and Calcutta. To further broaden my repertoire I decided to take my career to an international platform and worked for various companies which included Michelin-starred restaurants and international flight kitchens, before planning and designing menus for cruise liners such as Carnival Cruise Lines and Royal Caribbean. However, my dream was always to get back home and give Goa the world class level of cuisine I believe that it required. I take great pride in being a Goan chef and enjoy being able to showcase what a Goan chef can do, without having to leave Goa,” he says. Avinash claims that his move was well worth it, given the fact that he now has three successful enterprises under his belt.
Some chefs are just setting out on their careers. Others have returned veterans. One thing remains certain though; that with the ever-increasing number of people returning to Goa to build on a food culture, the future certainly seems bright.
