Earlier this week, I headed to an
establishment that plays host to the restaurant with probably the most winning
view in the capital: Bay 15. The only place to go to in secluded Odxel, Bay 15
has recently been taken over by a new management – Justa Hotels and Resorts who
have appointed a brand new Executive Chef Mir Hafizur Raheman. The new kitchen
task master is a local boy from Orissa, who has plied his trade, for years on
end along the coast of the Maldives, before moving much closer to home, and
boasts of his new ‘must-try’ menu.
At times, when dealing with out of the box
chefs (and Chef Raheman is one), it’s best, as Pat Benatar said, to let them
‘hit you with their best shot’, which is precisely what I proceeded to do,
giving the chef the opportunity to hit me with a six course menu of his
choosing, that he felt best represented his menu.
My courses began with an ‘amuse bouche’ of
a slice of Watermelon with a dollop of Gorgonzola, accompanied by a minty
watermelon shooter on the side. Now for those less gastronomically inclined, an
amuse bouche should not to be confused with hors d’oeuvre. The former is
derived from French, and literally translates to mouth amuser. It is a titbit
served as a free extra to keep you happy while you are waiting for your first
course. In this case, it certainly lived up to its title. While I am a huge fan
of blue cheese, my dining companion wasn’t; and truly, it isn’t something for
the faint of heart to just leap into, as said companion discovered as he choked
on his fair share. I on the other hand, loved it, though my preferred pairing
with watermelon still remains feta.
Next, came a Crab, Avocado and Mango Salad,
which had flavour packed into it, but was a little strong in terms of a
mayonnaise-flavoured aftertaste. However, sitting by the coastline, with a
combination of crab and mango, how much more tropical can one get?
This was followed by a Porcini Espresso
with Lemongrass Foam. My critique says that while the flavour of the lemongrass
could perhaps have been enhanced more, the dish was spectacular example of how
a light soup can find its way into a larger, winning menu. Porcini (and
mushroom on the whole) is one of the few things that I would give up meat for.
Nights out at Bay 15, especially on their deck with that aforementioned
spectacular view can be a bit chilly, and the warm and hearty Porcini Espresso
just fills you with warmth.
What followed next was my winner of the
evening, all around; a Beetroot, Honey and Ginger infused Risotto served with a
layer of Ratatouille and a quenelle of Black Lentil. While the ratatouille was incredibly tangy,
this was balanced out by the sweetness of the risotto and the neutrality of the
black lentil (is there any better kind?).
Our main course was divided into two
offerings. The first was a Stuffed Grain-Fed Chicken on a bed of Honey and
Carrot Puree, with Turned Vegetables and Micro-Greens on the side. The chicken
breast, which was stuffed with creamy spinach and ricotta as a filling, was
flavoursome in itself. However, what won me over was the silky smooth honey and
carrot puree. I could eat a bowlful and not complain. It was elegant comfort
food at its finest hour and Chef Raheman can make a career of selling it by the
tub to girls going through a break-up, who customarily sit watching television
crying into their ice-cream cartons. The puree makes you forget the world
outside and just envelopes you with goodness.
The second main was a Tandoori Red Snapper
with Eggplant Caviar, Sesame Potato Tikki and Kachumber Salad. The snapper was
to die for; moist and not dried out. In similar vein, the interestingly named
eggplant caviar was an enigma in itself. With an infusion of mustard oil, it
gave one the distinct hint of being laced with wasabi, in very subtle
undertones; a spectacular all around dish.
While I waited for the courses to arrive, I
realised two very basic things wherein Bay 15 still falls a tad behind. The
first is their turnaround time. From the time an order is placed to the time
the food makes its way to the table can sometimes have a large lag, leading to
disgruntled diners, if they are there exclusively for the food. The second (and
this is not the fault of the establishment but an incidental observation), is
that it draws a clientele which can sometimes be boorish to the point of
annoyance. Our evening was marred by loud, drunken shrieks of merriment by men
that proceeded to carry each other across the premises in romantic fashion.
This however, is not something that Chef Raheman can control, and his food
quickly distracts you from the ‘entertainment’.
This was promptly achieved by the final
(and more often than not, my favourite) course of the evening: dessert. We
dived immediately into our Lemongrass Mango Panna Cotta and Chocolate Chilli
Baked Yoghurt with Khubani Ka Meetha, like dessert was going out of style.
All in all, Chef Raheman takes the prize
for innovation and fusion, and Bay 15 wins purely for its setting. All in all,
it was an evening that redefined Bay 15’s bar, setting it higher than ever
before.
