Goa – The cauldron of creative folks who call it ‘home’

The winding streets, the quaint cottages and other creative work spaces in the now very creative-chic belt of Assagao, Anjuna, Moira, Corjuem and surrounding areas is brimming with idea curators. And each one’s work energizes those around them and the community at large. And they aren’t tourists or those who divide their time between Goa and elsewhere. This is home, where they and their hearts reside

It’s not a surprise that Goa attracts the creative lot – perhaps the singular group of people who can work remotely and more importantly have the gumption to lead a life of their choosing by trading ‘cold comfort for change’. But what is interesting is that a lot of these people who now call Goa home, aren’t here to lead a retired life. They, in fact are at their creative best and with a likeminded and small group of creative professionals are only increasing the opportunities to collaborate and form a small but thriving creative community. 

Leading the pack is Orijit Sen – India’s first graphic novelist, graphic artist and founder of the ‘People Tree’ store. He made the move more than 20 years ago and hence has seen a more vintage and unadulterated side of Goa, that perhaps in recent times has been diluted by overhype. “20 years ago, there was no internet or mobile phone which made it more difficult. Today, with fibre optic cable, it makes it possible to relocate and carry on with work,” says Orijit lending perspective. 

No wonder then that he continued to stay in Delhi and kept visiting Goa to make the final move only in 2013. He adds, “People Tree was located on Baga/Calangute Road which did well only in the tourist season and I had just one client in Goa which made it difficult to survive here.” In 2012, People Tree moved to Assagao and he began teaching at Goa University as a Visiting Professor. While Orijit is known for his hard hitting political cartooning and protest posters that have anonymously become synonymous with him, he continues to collaborate with artists and designers and in fact has already begun an Artists Residency at his studio and home in Corjeum, Aldona. “I am very wary of being the cause for many people to come to this side. Assagao and People Tree are more of a public space while Corjeum is more private. Currently, I have two rooms for artists to stay over an extended period of time,” shares Orijit and adds, “The plan is to hold workshops in my graphics studio and be available to mentor. The bigger plan is to have a Comic Arts Residency that focuses on the faculty of visual stories.”

Orijit, a big fan and practitioner of the subversive potential of comics and its powerful impact as social and political commentary, is only too happy to encourage and promote younger talent in the field. He says, “There’s a resurgence of comics and the medium is still vibrant. I am very excited to offer my space to these young people.”  Commenting on the collaborative scene in Goa, Orijit says, “The creative lot that are coming in don’t want to retire in a corner. They get their experience and quality of work into Goa which is very welcome – that can only be good for the place, community and for a broader interaction. The synergy that exists now is great.”

Sharing studio space in Orijit’s backyard is Thomas Louis’ pottery studio, Banana Pottery. A ceramic artist from National Institute of Design who made the move 8 years ago, Thomas is very practical about the ‘struggle’ that comes along with the lifestyle. “It’s easy to go wrong with production work,” he says and adds,  “A ceramic plate may look simple but there’s nearly 70% breakage before it turns out fine.” Experimenting and developing is his USP and he has taken his craft to the next level doing just that. Having worked on large scale installations for hotels and museums, Thomas’s inspiration comes from nature. Sea creatures and corals in ceramic, form his signature style statement. Says Thomas, “Experimenting is restricted in the cities. Here, I get to collaborate with chefs, musicians, artists and designers.”

Straddling between decorative and functional products and between commissioned and independent work, Thomas also has many students interning with him, some of whom have gone on to set up their own units here and teach as well.  Currently in Andaman & Nicobar Islands, doing an installation for a hotel, Thomas is happy to largely be a one man army and continue “doing things on his own”.

Similarly, mosaic artist, sculptor and painter, Shallu Sharma, a Fine Arts graduate who moved from Delhi has worked on several interesting projects in Goa. She and her team of 5 people have been instrumental in creating the 200 sq.ft architectural  mosaic on the ‘Birds of Goa’ on the outer walls of Rua de Ourem footbridge in Fontainhas and the impressive exterior wall mosaic of nearly 140sq.feet done for the Naval War College at INS Mandovi. Shirking away any notions of a ‘susegad’ life in Goa, Shallu pointedly says, “We work the same number of hours that I did in Delhi. I am in my studio at 8 a.m and work till 10p.m at night but I am happy to trade the city life for a rural existence that allows me to commune with nature and live with my many pets.” Her dedication to her craft is a bit like art therapy that allows her to reconstruct the mosaic of her life. She holds regular workshops and works with students from Goa College of Art. “Goa has a rich tradition in mosaic and I am happy to be a medium that helps people re-connect to this artform,” she trails.

Creating an alternative space and vibe is the newly opened Oddbar in Assagao. With Alt-Art-Lab as its baseline, this is an Alternative, Art and Lifestyle space created as an extension to the multigenre studio of editor-filmmaker duo Q and Hina Saiyada. Drawing from their extensive circle of friends, Oddbar has been able to showcase some very cool, alternative artists and has also screened ‘underground’ short films. Thursdays are music nights though there’s always something happening depending on who is visiting or dropping by in Goa. In the past, illustrator Allen Shaw and comic book writer, Appupen have showcased their work while Kunal Kamra made a visit to screen his unreleased podcast interview.  Oddbar has had Afrobeat artist Shebeen Beats, DJ Midland Sparks, ComaSoul, Imad Shah and rapper Sumit Roy perform. Explains Q, “My interest in this choice of lifestyle is an alternative one, which is not limited to just the immediate local environment but also draws from the world and in being ‘alternative’, we seek out anything that is out of the established order.”   

So, how does Oddbar fit into Goa’s ethos? Q happily reports, “Our neighbours are slowly getting interested and they have begun to drop in at our events. Sumit Roy recently also held a session with kids.” He adds, “ We also have special rates for neighbours at the bar.” 

The social anarchist thought process also fueled Nilankur Das – founder of THUS – who has been holding talks, screenings and discussions for the last six years at 6 Assagao (the space that houses People Tree & Gunpowder). “My only aim is to try and develop the social capital of Goa where contemporary issues are presented and discussed. Goa is a small state and I find that it is easier to effect change here,” he says. 

With a vibrant, creative movement in Goa, it just seems timely that the Goa Open Arts Festival is being held from 13th to 16th February at Nagoa. Initiated by a group of creative professionals living in Goa, the festival aims to galvanise the creative talent pool that resides in Goa and make it inclusive. Gopika Chowfla, who is part of the organising team agrees, “This is the very reason for the Festival. There is a large base of creative people, from within Goa and even those who have moved here. A lot of them are also disconnected from the mainstream events in cities so we wanted to organise this festival here and hopefully make it an annual event.” 

Goa has always been a cultural and heritage hotspot, now add some creativity to it and the cauldron is brimming with magic!

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