Well, ‘I do’ is
a phrase used in some marriage vows, but foodies will concur that the two words can also be used to
acknowledge gastronomic wows. And if the topic of conversation is Goan cuisine
that just hits the spot and does justice to the word ‘authentic’, one can
easily be forgiven for falling short of superlatives or coming up with new
ones.
As per common knowledge, Goan cuisine is an interesting mix of
eclectic influences – the 450-year-long Portuguese rule, besides that of the
Muslim and Hindu kingdoms, has left a strong influence on the original style of
Goan cooking and this has led to an exotic mix of truly tasty and spicy
cuisine. Broadly divided into two, the Goan Hindu cuisine features coconut and
tamarind-based gravies, and Goan Catholic cuisine is more vinegar-based and
features curries that are thinner than the former.
Locals will agree, the best of Goan cuisine can be found not in
the fancy five star properties but the little bars and cafés that double up as
restaurants, frequented by the locals for their daily meals. And if Salcete is
home to the best of Goan Catholic cuisine, Ponda, considered to be a Hindu
stronghold province, naturally offers the best of Goan Hindu cuisine.
The temple town has
eateries aplenty in the many quaint villages that take you back to the Goa of
yore. And many of these gems, where the village locals sit and drink, have very
few particulars on the food menu, some of which have earned signature status. A
visit to Ramnathi is incomplete without a stopover at Mahesh Bar and
Restaurant, better known as Sadu’s. Named after the late Sadanand Kerkar, aka
Sadu, who set up the place a few decades ago, today the place is run by nephew
Dheeraj Kerkar. Of course, the ageing senior Vasudev Kerkar, Dheeraj’s dad,
manages the counter, but most importantly, initiates and partakes in
conversations surrounding the state of affairs in the republic of Ponda.
Enter Sadu’s and a
tiny balcao of sorts on either side welcomes you. Once inside, you realise that
the place is almost like a maze with multiple rooms that require you to take
multiple turns to navigate through them. With an apron tied around his waist,
Dheeraj – the man at helm of affairs in the open kitchen, always greets
everyone with a smile. The best of seafood is always on offer but the pièce de
résistance is the famed Chicken Chilly, which is stuff of legends. Simply put,
Chicken Chilly is to Sadu’s what Shrewsbury biscuits are to Kayani, or
Bakarwadis are to Chitale’s.
The humble fish curry
rice, another must-try at Sadu’s, is a non fussy yet delectable affair. A neat
mix of prawn curry, rice, veggies, fried fish and sol kadi, the fish thali is
simple, wholesome Goan food cooked the Hindu way. The thali, or jevonn, can be
had only in the afternoons, on all days of the week except Mondays, since most
Hindus abstain from consuming non-veg on this day.
Sadu’s
does not try to be special – its simplicity is what makes it special by
default. If a no-frills place that offers delicious local cuisine, a place
where you can have your local urrak and also have international brands of beer
and other spirits without being judged is your thing, Sadu’s should definitely
be on your list.
