Walking into a
starred property, one would expect exotic flavours and lavish food presentations. However, the all
new menu at Goan Stories by Tease at Vivanta Goa, Panaji has brought the Goan
family kitchen into the hotel ambience.
Over centuries, Goan cuisine has been influenced by the
Portuguese. The spices and recipes they brought in are still served and are an
important part of the culinary experience. The menu is a mix of different
influences that make up an integral part of a meal and is craftfully curated by
Executive Chef Jose Thomas, who specialises in coastal cuisine.
This edition of Goan Stories has more dishes to offer and with a
good balance of vegetarian and non vegetarian dishes, based on Saraswat and
Portuguese cuisines. Right from the appetisers to the desserts, one is spoilt
for choice in the elaborate menu. First, sip on the refreshing and appetising
Sol Kadhi, a digestive drink prepared from Kokum and coconut milk, with a bit
of spice.
In appetisers, the menu features sea food, vegetables and
chicken. We opted for ‘Mushroom Picante’, which is a spicy preparation made
with button mushrooms tossed in chilli flakes, garlic, onions and spring onion.
Despite the kick of spice, you’ll be going in for seconds. ‘Exotic Vegetable
Mardol’, made with exotic vegetables cooked in curry leaves, ‘roasted spices
and grated coconut, was actually the hero of this course; the smooth gravy
coating veggies such as mushrooms, zucchinis and broccoli in a delectable way.
‘Bharille Bangde’ is deboned mackerels stuffed with green chilli and coconut
chutney. Here, I have to mention that the fish could have been completed clear
of bones rather than having us fishing out tiny bones between bites. Other
appetisers include seasonal vegetables like raw bananas for ‘Harvi Keli Chi
Fodi’ and bread fruit for ‘Nirpansache Fodi’.
Soup is a part of many a Goan home, either before starters or in
the evening, before dinner. The soups were tried here were ‘Sopa De Peixe com
cebolas verde’ and ‘Canja de galinha soup’. While the former has a mix of
flavours with different sea food such as squid and prawn with bell peppers and
spring onions, the latter is the basic yet noted Portuguese chicken soup. Both
were a burst of freshness and flavour, clearly great choices.
The main course had a
mix of influences including dishes like ‘Khatkhatem’, a Saraswat Brahmin
specialty of vegetables, grated coconut, jaggery and tamarind; ‘Arroz de
Camarao,’ a prawns pulao cooked with whole aromatic spices; ‘White Pumpkin
Caldin’, a mild curry with coconut extract and spices; and a spicy ‘Cashew Pea
mushroom xacuti’ with fresh mushrooms, whole cashew nuts and peas cooked in a
blend of roasted ground spices and coconut gravy. No Goan meal is complete
without fresh sea food and ‘Camarao Tigre Cilantro’, a lip smacking creation of
Chef Rego experience, was that factor. The creamy and succulent tiger prawns
cooked in olive oil with cashew and coconut gravy flavoured with fresh
coriander was a rich treat. We also tried the ‘Rock Lobster a La Goa’ – lobster
combined with Goan spices and capsicum, served in a lobster shell; it was both
visually appeasing and right on spot for the taste buds.
The humble thali also
gets a special place on the menu and as Chef Jose informs, it is one of the most
sought after items for lunch and dinner with the ‘Goan Fish Thali’ and the
‘Goan Shivrak Thali’. A thali is usually a quick meal encompassing all the
dishes, however, for dinner, the restaurant offers an even more elaborate thali
with appetisers.
There’s
always room for dessert and ‘Coupe Salcette’, a tender coconut, cashew and
raisin ice cream on a crispy tart, with feni infused fruit coulis, and
‘Serradura’, a Portuguese panna cotta layered with crumbled cookies and
condensed milk sabayon don’t disappoint the sumptuous meal. Using local produce
and fresh catch from the sea and setting them in delicious recipes that
wouldn’t be out of place at your grandmother’s dining table, the new menu is
surely a spread worth experiencing.

