Food elicits many different reactions in people.
Some people are drawn by the taste, of course. Others,
however, might be tempted by its smells and visual
appearance. For thousands of years, people have sought
not only to make food taste better, but great strides also
have been made in making food smell and look better. It’s
one thing to make a signature Goan prawn curry visually
appealing. It’s a whole other matter, however, to turn it
into a true work of art.
The brave and creative souls at Serendipity Art
Festival 2017 (SAF 17) are attempting to educate the
foodies about the art that is food. And when the cuisine
in question is Goa, the possibilities of interpretations are
endless. While the debut edition of SAF in Goa featured
the core element – rice, and showcased in an art form,
this year, the humble coconut will hog the attention as
the principle element. And unlike last year, where the
festival had participation from people outside Goa along
with the locals, this year only Goan restaurateurs will be
seen involved. Popular food historian and critic, Odette
Mascarenhas, one of the curators of culinary arts at SAF17,
says, “Local entrepreneurs may not know the local cuisine
but they have worked on cuisines which perhaps are
on par with other restaurants across India. But for some
reasons, we have not showcased that as an art form. It
took a lot of soul searching and hence we have divided it
into different areas where we will showcase food as art,
depending on the cuisine.” Children’s Park, Campal, the
venue of choice
that has been
devoted completely
for the display of Goan
cuisine, will be abuzz with
action.
Since time immemorial, the coconut has played an
extremely important role in Goan households. At SAF,
the participants will be taken on a Goan gastronomical
journey that will begin with Goud Saraswat Brahmin
cuisine, traversing across multiple categories of Goan
food, in a bid to educate the audience on how the
coconut has played an important role in each and every
kitchen over the years. Talk Goud Saraswat Brahmin
cuisine and chances are the the Bharlela Bangda (stuffed
mackerel) will have you drooling. The journey will then
make a pit stop at the Hindu centric preparations of Goan
cuisine. The Nishtechi Kadi (Fish curry) along with the dry
prawn Kismoor will be there for sampling.
Odette says, “Before the Portuguese occupied
the Konkan talukas like Pernem, Canacona, Sanguem
and Quepem in the 18th century, there was a cuisine
that was very Goan but with a lot of Konkan influence.
Once the Portuguese took over, newer ingredients were
introduced. For example, the Xacuti, as we know it, was
Shagoti from the region of Pernem until over time it was
converted to Xacuti. The workmen from Pernem used
to work in the homes doing the furniture and beds, and
their women used give them a curry made with the use of
a lot of black pepper, making the curry spicy. As a result
the sweat that used to ooze out, made the siesta a
very cooling one. The catholic homes that used their
services learnt how to make the curry and that is how
Xacuti developed.” At SAF17, a family from Pernem is
going to highlight this aspect.
Next in the exploration of Goan cuisine is the
Portuguese inspired Goan cuisine. Although there’s not
much influence of coconut, a dish called Temperado will
represent the use of coconut in this cuisine. We are told
that Chef Peter, the man at helm of affairs, will whip up a
vegetarian version of this dish.
On display will be different fish curries that will show
the variation in colour, texture and the way it tastes,
thereby showing the diversity and variation of Goan
cuisine.
Another very interesting aspect of culinary arts is
the participation of the families from the Beary Muslim
community, about 200 families of whom have settled in
Goa since the 13th century. Odette says, “I had no idea of
their existence until I was invited to one of the families.
They have the Vindalho and the Xacuti made in their
homes that are similar, yet so different from what we are
used to.” A lady by the name of Khairum Nisha Begum is
going to touch upon this aspect, along with celebrating
coconut in their cuisine.
There’s lot more happening at SAF17 and chances
are that you may not be able to look at food the same
way, after you have attended the multiple workshops
and sampled the food at the various food stalls at SAF17.
There’s much more to Goan food, the same way there’s
much more to Goa than its night-life, and the folks are
SAF17 are attempting to highlight just that. Afterall, food is
the most delicious art that is there.
