Can discomfort
be fun? Why not, if it propels an unmatched adrenaline rush as you lay your
heart open to the benign indifference of nature? And where? In the virgin woods
of the Mizo hills, one of the least explored belts in the northeastern part of
India.
That “all
the difference” which came into the later life of Robert Frost was defined
by his decision to follow “the road less travelled,” has now become the
mantra for many adventure-seekers is a well known fact, but the road trip of
our subject too finds “two roads” diverging “in a yellow
wood”. The traveller is left with the choice to either follow the routine
path that leads to Aizawl, the happening capital of Mizoram, or to tread along
“the road less travelled” and discover the unseen majesty of the Mizo
hills.
The moment you
choose the latter, an overwhelming feeling of being in the heart of nature
grips you and the countless surprises that follow along the way together make
for a fulfilling experience.
My almost
13-hour long road trip from Aizawl airport (located about an hour away from the
main city) to the town of Tlabung – 2,802 feet above the sea level – was mostly
covered during the night and much to my amazement, it turned out to be the best
way to discover the region.
Fancy this: On a
chilly full-moon night, you are driving along a route that has more twists and
turns than you had imagined, the trees and the wilderness are canopying along
the immediate ends of the road and suddenly out of nowhere emerges the eerie
sight of a graveyard, located along the slopes of a valley. With the bright
full-moon glowing in all its glory, the graves seem almost magical – straight
out of some Hollywood horror movie – while the sky adorns a milky attire. Let
your creative juices flow and you can almost imagine a demon staring down at
you from the bushes at the top of the hill!
It takes you
almost two-and-a-half hours to cover the first 40 kilometres and then you reach
Hmuifang. The small town – undisturbed by even the slightest bits of
urbanisation — is an ideal location for your first stop. There is a tourist
lodge and a park on one side of the road while you can stop at one of the shops
on the other to savour some local cuisines and tea.
Almost 60
kilometres from Hmuifang consume another three to four hours and you reach
Thenzawl, the site where Mizoram’s highest waterfall is located. The Vantawng
Falls is located in the very heart of the wilderness, five kilometres south of
Thenzawl and is a must-stop. At night you see the waterfall cascading from the
hill-top in all its majesty and it almost invites you to take a dip. But be
warned, it’s chilly and there are numerous poisonous snakes doing the rounds.
Another two
hours of drive and you reach the small Jerusalem market. At almost midnight,
one can find women selling fresh organic vegetables waiting for the last bus
that passes through the road. It’s a sight to behold. Not very far away from
here is the ‘Honest Shop’, where there are no shopkeepers and the buyers are
expected to leave behind the right amount at the shop. And then you reach
Lunglei.
This is where
one should make the stop for the first night. The government-run Tourist Lodge
offers decent accommodation for both budget as well as high-end travellers.
Wake up early
the next morning and head towards Tlabung, the most challenging part of the
trip as the roads are in very poor condition. It’s almost an off-road
experience as the next 90-odd kms, the last leg of your journey, will consume
more than six hours. But the sights along the way are worth all the pain. You
come across numerous wooden bridges and the fear of dropping down – straight
200 feet into the river – pumps the adrenaline.
Also along the
way are numerous small eateries, all selling authentic Mizo cuisine. At most
shops, you can have a wholesome meal for a mere Rs 130. On offer is boiled
pork, bamboo shoots, pumpkin leaves, boiled brinjal, chicken and crabs.
Spend the next
day in Tlabung and indulge in the many ethereal experiences that it offers.
There are no tour operators and you have the ultimate choice of taking a peep
into the lives of the local people.
The
Khawthlangtuipui, also known as the Karnaphuli river, is the perfect option for
boating. With Bangladesh on one side and India on the other, it takes you right
into the heart of local communities by showing their lives from an unexpected
proximity.
It’s time to
head back. Worried about the long and tiring journey? Do a reversal of plans
and the entire experience will again be memorable. Take a day-ride as you
return and the expectation of unexpected will always lurk around the corner.
You will hear the crickets chirp, see the birds fly in strange formations,
witness the locals living in their authentic style and you will be left with a
craving for more. – bfirst.in
The writer, Saket
Suman, was in Mizoram at the invitation of World Vision India
BOX ITEM:
FAQs
1. There are
several flights to Aizawl from Delhi and other major cities
2. Hire a local
taxi at the Airport for the road-trip
3. The internet
connectivity is almost negligible
4. Carry warm
clothes, umbrellas and gumboots
