Bandra festak gelom
hanv tea nimnnea aitara …
Ugdaas vechonam
Montichea festacho,
Char anneak hanv mog
jiklom Bandrachea
cheddvacho
— H Britton
This evergreen song, is remembered through-out the year but more so in September and enjoyed by almost every Goan –Catholics and Hindus alike, just like the quintessential English songs in the world, ‘Come September’ of the American romantic comedy of 1961, known by that name and Frank Sinatra’s, ‘September Song’. In Europe September is the month of the New Year in schools as the temperatures decrease and it ushers in the beginning of autumn, so there are plenty of sunny days in-between the occasional cloudy, wet ones.
In India and Goa, September is a month of feasts and festivals, celebrating the birthdays of both the Catholic and Hindu divinities. On the eighth day (Ashtami) after the full moon of Shravan, Krishna was born in Mathura. Hence this auspicious day of Janmashtami or Gokulashtami was celebrated on September 6, all over India. In Goa, this event was celebrated on the banks of the river Panchaganga at Porne Tirtha and in the Saptakoteshwara Temple in Narve, Bicholim, the Nagesh Temple at Bandora and the Devaki Krishna temple in Marcel among other temples. On the next day of Janmashtami, young boys, tie a pot filled with curds (dahi handi) high on a rope and form human pyramids to reach the pot to show the mischievous nature of child Krishna.
On this date the Catholic Church celebrates the feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, as it is considered as the day of her birth, which is nine months after the feast of the Immaculate Conception held on December 8. All Goan churches celebrate this feast with great pomp and devotion. The Chinchinim Church feast is also celebrated on the second Sunday of September. Since the 16th century, this feast was called the Monti Saibinichem Fest, taking its name from the Capela de Nossa Senhora do Monte, Chapel of our Lady of the Monte, in Old Goa. This chapel was constructed on a hillock on Afonso de Albuquerque’s orders. According to Fr Apolinario Cardozo S J, it was Fr Gasper Barzeus, a 16th century Jesuit who introduced the custom of sprinkling flowers when he requested the newly converted children to bring flowers during the novenas days before the feast, giving it the name of the Fulanchem Fest.
In India we use flowers as symbols of celebrations and festivities. temples and churches use flowers as offerings on a day to day basis. However the Edict of 1736 prohibited the newly converted women from embellishing their hair with fresh flowers. The reason as explained by a Catholic priest was that these women were used to the tradition of the Oracle, of seeking divine blessings of the deity with flower petals – still followed in Goan temples today. So they used saliva to stick a petal to the Catholic statues and believed that they now had the blessings of the Catholic Gods. A cultural practice followed for generations could not be erased from public memory overnight after conversion to a new religion!
The tradition of showering flowers on the statue of Mother Mary has however undergone a change in almost every church in Goa. Now the children go in a procession to the statue which is kept in front of the altar at the beginning of the mass, and place the flowers at Our Lady’s feet. During the procession they sing the hymn, Devachie Maye, (Mother of God).
In Majorda, this feast is celebrated at the Church of Mae de Deus, Mother of God. Prior to the feast the small Christian communities (somudayo) make boats and decorate them with palm leaves. On the eve of the feast all these boats are brought to the church in a procession, each with a statue of Mary placed in it. After the mass, the Parish Priest blesses and puts incense over them. This custom was discontinued but has been restarted ten years ago. The significance of the boats lies in the belief that Mother Mary interceded and brought to safety some seamen whose boat was destroyed in a storm.
September 8 is also celebrated as the Moderanchem fest (Feast of furniture), although it has no connection with the church feast of Chichinim. This village was famous for its carpenters who were forced to work at home during the monsoons. During this time indoors, they made wooden cupboards, beds, chairs, altars etc. On the feast day they would bring their wares and place them in the open space in front of the church. Today of course, furniture is also sold at other feasts such as the Purumentachem fest, the Milagris fest etc, but the feast that was well known for good furniture in yesteryears was of the Moderanchem fest in Chichinim.
Chovot or Ganesh Chaturthi festival is the festival of the birth of Lord Ganesh. This year we celebrate this festival from September 19. Lord Ganesh is respected as the God of wisdom, prosperity and good fortune in Hindu mythology. The matoli (wooden canopy) is a representation of the eco-friendly connection of the festival as it is adorned with seasonal fruits, vegetables and flowers. All Goans look forward to the chaturthi cuisine of modaks, nevreo, besan laddos, katkate etc. Lord Ganesh is also the God of learning and is regarded as the Vignaharta or the remover of obstacles. It is a festival of ‘home coming’, as it is a tradition for individuals to revisit their ancestral homes and renew family ties. In post-liberated Goa, Sarvajanik Ganesh festivals are held for 11 days where large Ganesh idols are installed in public spaces.
Anant Chaturdashi is celebrated in honour of Lord Vishnu 10 days after Ganesh Chaturthi. It is the day to worship God Anant, and the installation of the red colour Anant Chaturdashi thread followed by the special cuisine in the form of Naivedya, of Payas (rice and milk sweet). Fourteen oddes made of wheat and cucumbers, seven of which are given to the bhat along with the old thread and the rest kept for the family.
For many Goans the feast of the Vailankanni Church is an extension of their belief in Mother Mary. The railway adds special trains between Goa to Nagapattinam for pilgrims before and after the feast. The famous Basilica of Our Lady of Health is known as the ‘Lourdes of the East’. The people believe that it was Mother Mary’s intercession that miraculously saved some Portuguese sailors in a storm.
In India, September is one of the most festive months. As Islam follows the lunar calendar, the dates of festivals change depending on the sighting of the moon and festivals may or may not coincide. September is a month when Gods, nature and people celebrate together be it Monti fest, Fulanche fest, Janmasthami or Ganesh Chaturthi – a time to celebrate for all in Goa, India and even Europe. Feasts and festivals usher in positive vibes and bring neighbours and communities together all over the world. When Gods celebrate their birthdays in the same month without any animosity how can we mortals wrangle over theological arguments as differences amongst us? Differences need to be respected and will always remain as a part of our amicable living as good neighbours in Goa.
(Prof (Dr ) Sushila Sawant Mendes is an author and Professor in History, Govt. College of Arts, Science & Commerce, Quepem)
