Goa is a land of diverse cultures and syncretism is the corner-stone of our Goan-ness. Syncretism is the attempt to amalgamate different religions, cultures or schools of thought. Participation in each other’s religious festivals has been the very essence of the idea of Goa. This does not imply veneration and worship but rather just sharing in each other’s joy. A few days back on the 29th June, the people of Goa celebrated the Chikhal Kalo in Marcela and, on a smaller scale, at the Sant Vitobha Mandir in Ponda and the Shree Vithal – Rakhumai Mandir in Sanguem, on the auspicious day of Ashadhi Ekadashi. On this same day, there were also celebrations at the Shri Pandurang Mandir at Vithalpur, Sanquelim and the Shree Vithal Mandir at Durgawadi, Taleigao.
Hundreds of Goans of the Warkari sect reach the Sant Vitobha temple at Pandharpur on the 28th on a foot pilgrimage of more than 300 kms to participate in the festival on the next day. The feast of St Peter and Paul or the Sangodd festival in celebrated in Ambelim, Assolna, Agassaim, Anjuna, Goa Velha, Ribandar, São Pedro, Candolim, Pernem and Siolim. Eid Al- Adha, also known as Bakri Eid, or Eid Qurban, or Qurban Bayrami, which means the feast of the sacrifice, was celebrated all over the country including Goa.
In most Catholic and Hindu houses, the delicacies of Biryani, mutton and Kheer are sent by Muslim friends and neighbours. In the villages, it is always a celebration of communities within communities as good neighbours. The fact that so many feasts and festivals of diverse nature came together on the same day was perhaps a reminder from above that despite our differences in beliefs, customs and traditions, we are all niz goenkars.
As per the Hindu calendar in the month of Ashada during the monsoons, the square in front of the Devikikrishna Devasthan at Marcela is converted into Lord Krishna’s vrundavan. Devotional songs are played the full night till the next day when the traditional lamp is lit with the offering of Shree phal or coconut to the Goddess. From young boys to old men, the devotees put the vermillion tilak on their forehead and then apply oil all over their bodies donated by the local shopkeepers of the Govekar and Palang families. After going around the lamp, these devotees run to the temple square accompanied by the beating of drums.
The games played by Krishna are enacted here: like blind fold, dog and the bone, running through a human tunnel, the tug of war and the formation of a rotating human wheel by touching the legs and the others holding the hands to aid in the process of rotation. Any person is lifted, thrown in the wet mud and splashed with mud. Somewhere in between two groups are made, with each making fun of the other, a mock wedding is also performed between two teenage boys, representing the bride and the groom. The Dahi Handi, a favourite of Lord Krishna is the final item, taking the form of a human pyramid under the Pipal tree. Sweets like puran poli, ladoos, chapati bolls and coconut panchakhaj are thrown towards the devotees, some of which fall on the ground. The devotees then wash themselves at the village well before taking part in the Aarthi. This festival connects the body with mother earth and as the body is exposed to wet mud it helps develop immunity.
Many Goans are devotees of Lord Vitobha of Pandharpur and this devotion makes them undertake the Pandharpur wari yatra from Goa to Maharashtra. This year, it was unfortunate that Goa lost its son, renowned drama artist, artisan and Director, Shashikant Nageshkar. This is a call that arrangements for medical assistance are an urgent need for these pilgrims.
The celebration of the feast of Saints Peter and Paul by the Catholic Church is always on 29th June, the day of their martyrdom in Rome. A sangodd is made by tying two or more canoes or boats together to form a floating raft. St Peter was a fisherman and his image is tied to a bamboo pole. A façade of a Chapel or Church is erected on the sangodd with colourful buntings and a sound system for dance performers, singers and actors. In Assolna, as elsewhere, the day begins with the feast mass and then the village priest blesses the river Sal, the Sangodds and the areca nut poles used by fishermen to set their nets. The villagers of Tari vaddo, Colea vaddo and Ambelim take the route from Assolna to Betul. The words, “Viva San Pedro” rend the air. At Candolim, the celebrations begin at St Peter’s Chapel at Orda vaddo, at Ribandar, at the Ribandar – Chorao ferry wharf, in Goa Velha at the Casa de Povo, in Anjuna at Chinvar vaddo and in Baga, at the bridge. In Assolna, the starting point is just ahead of the Assolna Church and around 4 pm, the feeling of merriment and excitement was very palpable and nobody minded the rain. The colourful sangodd, along with the revellers wearing red T Shirts was such a picturesque scene which almost lived up to Osonkars referring to their village as “Oslem na”! Even an empty Sal, is lovely to behold, the sangodd just adds to its natural beauty.
The Bakri Idd, is celebrated on the 10th day or 12th month of the Muslim lunar calendar. This festival is a celebration of Ibrahim’s, and his son, Ismael’s love for Allah, as the father was ready to sacrifice his son with his approval to fulfil the wishes of Allah. As Allah was pleased with Ibrahim’s devotion, he sent angel Gabriel with sheep for slaughter instead of his son.
After the sunrise, Muslims offer community prayers in a mosque and then visit the kabrasthan or graveyards to remember their ancestors. A goat is sacrificed to commemorate this sacrifice and a part of this meat is donated to the poor, to friends and relatives and also for their own consumption. New clothes are worn; children receive Iddi and gifts are exchanged and it is also a time to visit friends and family.
The coming together of so many festivals of diverse faiths and beliefs on the same day in Goa and the celebration of these festivals by all Goans, irrespective of their individual religion, is a witness of the long standing harmony between the people of Goa who celebrate each other’s festivals in a spirit of love and brotherhood. It is said that a Goan cannot do without his rice and fish curry but on the occasion of Bhakri Idd cannot do without his share of Biryani and Kheer. This year, unfortunately the Hindus could not consume mutton on Ashadhi Ekadashi. The Christians and Muslim neighbours await their share of coconut Panchakhaj, laddos and puran poli. This give and take of food during festivals is a replica of the give and take that is expected of us in our lives as one Goan community, which no politics of vote banks can ever erase. These celebrations, on the same day, are a reminder to us Goans by an external supernatural force of the value of diversity in the weave of the colourful tapestry of Goan culture and heritage.
(Prof (Dr) Sushila Sawant Mendes is an Author and Professor in History, Govt College of Arts, Science & Commerce, Quepem)
