The pilgrims’ progress

Café visits the religious premises at Old Goa and speaks to pilgrims who have gathered overnight as well as others who travel with zeal for the feast of St Francis Xavier

The buzz in the grounds of the Se Cathedral and the
Basilica de Bom Jesus on the night of December 2 is
palpable. The footpath leading up to the cathedral in
particular has a sea of people milling about, waiting
eagerly for the sunrise that will follow, which will bring
about what may well be the largest catholic celebration
in the state: the feast of St Francis Xavier.
Across many years, various groups of people have
been making this journey. From families to friends
in large numbers, this feast, one that celebrates the
patron saint of the people, or Goemcho Saib, is as
much religious as it is cultural. One family that has
been spending the night preceding the feast within the
grounds for over 50 years is the D’Souza family from
Cansaulim. The nearly 26-kilometre long journey is no
matter of concern to this family who have come with
members representing both ends of the spectrum –
an octogenarian aunt as well as a new-born aged 11
months. When asked how the feat is achieved annually,
Agnelo, the family representative, simply says, “For us
it is a way of life. Before I was even a year old, I was
brought into this family ritual wherein we would walk
the distance and then pray, before spending the night
on holy ground.”
And while some say that commercialisation causes
faith to dwindle, the employees of KFC in Calangute
will be the first to shout out in objection. Pooling their
resources together, the group responsible for normally
feeding tourists by the dozen have travelled the required
23 kilometres in order to pay their respects by way of
an all-night vigil, before heading back to their day job.
Caught in the middle of a meal, the hungry travellers
share that they felt it was their ‘responsibility and
religious due’ to be there. Cheryl, one of the members
of the duty-bound group, says, “We knew that we would
have to find a way to get here, while similarly being
fully aware that we would not be able to simultaneously
take time off to observe our religious rites. As such, we
waited until every last one finished his shift and then
came across as a unit.”
Religion is considered by many, to be a unifying
force. The tales of these pilgrims seemingly concur.
Other stories of similar travellers are included below.

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