GAURESH SATTARKAR
For eleven months of the year, it belongs entirely to the underwater depths. But every May, like clockwork, the waters of the Salaulim Dam re-cede, throwing open the gates to one of Goa’s most captivating spiritual and historical secrets: the Shri Someshwar Temple.
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Located in the submerged ghost village of Curdi within the Sanguem taluka, this ancient temple has once again risen from its watery grave. As the scorch-ing summer heat lowers the
The old road leading into the valley reservoir’s water levels, the old road leading into the valley grad-ually materialises, prompting a massive influx of devotees and curious travellers eager to catch a fleeting glimpse of the historic structure.
Originally constructed in 1712 AD, the Shri Someshwar Temple stood for centuries as the heart of a bustling, vibrant community. However, its destiny changed for-ever in 1970.
To pave the way for the mas-sive Salaulim Dam project-de-signed to provide drinking water to the region-the entire village of Curdi had to be sacrificed. The government relocated the local residents to nearby areas such as Vaddem and Valkini, and shortly after, the village went underwa-ter along with the temple. While the physical village was lost to the reservoir, the spi it of Curdi remains indestructible. Every May, the displaces villagers and their descendants make an emotional pilgrim age back to their ancestral soil to celebrate the temple’s annu al festival with immense devotion, joy, and nostalgia.
What makes this reemergence truly profound is that unearths more than just Hindu history. The ruins of Cu di also hold the remnants of a local church and a dargall These structures serve as a beautiful reminder of the deep-rooted communal harmony that once defined the vi lage, where Hindus, Muslims, and Christians lived togethe peacefully.
For many, the annual trek is deeply personal, filled wit a mixture of profound joy and a disorienting sense of dis placement. Pramod Shirgaonkar, a long time devotee, tra elled to the site with his loved ones, expressed the dee emotional pull of the ruins, stating, “I have been visitin this temple for many years.. I brought my two sons and m wife, my family. We are so happy to be here.”
Yet, the raw, altered landscape also highlights the com fusing legacy of the relocation. Shirgaonkar candidly note the harsh, shifting elements of the exposed valley, remari ing, “It is very cold here. We don’t feel hungry.”
Beyond the original villagers, the submerged wonde has captured the attention of a new generation of traves lers, largely driven by digital discovery. A local youth who travelled a long distance to witness the phenomenon ex plained, “We saw this temple on Instagram.. This temple is in the water for a long time and it opens in April-May, when the water is less… So we saw the address and we came here in the morning”
Travelling with a group of seven people from Solapur, they encountered a few minor hurdles but found the jour ney entirely rewarding “No, the road is a bit rough but it is very nice here. There is a cool atmosphere,” the youth shared. Describing the unique setting, they added, “It is Ma-hadeva’s temple… It is very nice here. There is water on both sides, there is a temple in the middle… Everyone should visit here once. It is a great experience.”
For those making the journey today, the site offers an experience that is both spiritually profound and visually arresting. Visitors to the temple are “treated to breathtak ing scenic views of nature, making the place spiritually and visually captivating.”
But the window to witness this phenomenon is incredibly short. By early June, the monsoon will arrive, the reservoir will swell, and the temple will quietly slip back beneath the waves, hidden away for another eleven months.
