MYOLA JOANES
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BENAULIM: Piedade Fernandes, 49, sits by a hand-molded mud oven in Benaulim, expertly roasting chickpeas over red-hot sand—a skill she inherited after marrying into a family of gram roasters spanning four generations.
“I wasn’t really aware of the trade,” she admits. “I started by accompanying my husband to sell grams at feast fairs, and I picked it up quickly. Now, I even roast grams myself!”
Though the family roasts grams throughout the year, feast days are particularly special. Piedade, her husband Domingos, and their three children hurry through chores the night before to prepare. “Some places require a makeshift oven at the stall, so we set it up the day before. People love fresh roasted, hot grams,” Piedade explains. Their mornings are scheduled around the first feast Mass, ensuring they’re ready for the day’s rush.
Discussing changing times, Piedade notes, “Sales have dropped compared to before. Grams were once only available at fairs, but now you can find them year-round.” She grows emotional recalling the family’s struggle during Covid-19. “It was a tough time. My husband, who has sold grams all his life, had to switch to selling fish just to make ends meet. Somehow, we worked through it and managed to feed our kids. That was God taking care of us,” she says, wiping away tears.
The sand-roasting process is no easy feat. “We wait for the sand to turn red hot—it’s an excellent heat conductor and ensures the grams roast quickly and evenly,” she explains. “We marinate the grams with turmeric, a few drops of water, and salt. Then, we roast them while stirring constantly. It takes experience to estimate the perfect heat and timing before removing them.” Despite the heat and effort, Piedade loves her work.
Her children, though young and focused on their education, actively participate. “I’ve told them that just as we’ve preserved this trade as traditional Goan gram sellers, they must continue it,” Piedade says. “They’ve been helping me since they were very young, calling out to passersby, ‘Bai, chonne zai gho?’ (Would you like some grams?). They aren’t shy, and I believe they’ll keep this going.”
Piedade didn’t envision this journey when she joined her husband’s family, but today, she continues the age-old tradition with pride, ensuring Goa’s festive spirit lives on, one roasted gram at a time.
