When one visualises the bustling
Candolim-Calangute stretch, the last thing one associates with the locale is
peace and quiet, yet a quaint new establishment on the strip offers exactly
that: serenity. In keeping with the concept of offering new things to the state
of Goa, they also offer a kind cuisine that was hitherto unknown: Persian. The
brainchild of Anita and Sam Khosroshahi, Café Tehran is Goa’s only Persian
restaurant, which aims to present previously unexplored Iranian flavours to the
Goan audience. Tucked into an offbeat winding lane of the Candolim streets, the
simple yet breezy café is located amidst a patch of large mango trees. Minimalistic
in its décor with rustic cane furniture and Persian art adorning the
whitewashed walls of the café, the venue looks to sell on the basis of its
authenticity to origin rather than visual impact only. In keeping with this,
the indoor seating is styled in diwan style which is perfect for a quiet chat
with friends over a steaming cup of Irani Chai.
The image of Persian cuisine conjures up
images that range right from succulent lamb kebabs marinated in delicate
spices, to saffron flavoured rice, yogurt dips and piping hot bread. However, it’s
best to begin the meal with the traditional drink Doogh, a savoury yogurt based beverage seasoned with mint, dry
fruits and a fried flower, known as the Mohammadi, which is a red Iranian rose and is used
extensively in the local cuisine.
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The typically hearty meal then moves onto a platter
of snacks, dips and salads. Servings of hummus
and kashke bademjan, a mildly
spiced roasted eggplant dip served with flat bread arrive at your table
alongside a selection of fresh salads dressed with herbs and spices. The Shirazi salad, a mix of locally grown
fresh vegetables tossed in Iranian herbs, gets its name from the heritage city
of Shiraz in Iran where it is extremely popular. A distinctly sour flavour is what
stands out in most of the dishes here, which is largely attributed to the
addition of lemon, pomegranates or sumac, all of which are popular flavours in
the culinary style.
However, it’s the succulent juicy kebabs wherein
the soul of Persian cuisine lies. Predominantly featuring lamb or chicken,
these kebabs are the hero of the region’s traditional cuisine. Marinated in
spices and yogurt and barbequed to perfection on a sizzling hot grill, they are
served alongside herbs or pickles and are eaten wrapped in taftun or sangak which are
variations of flat bread. As is the practice in Iran, servings of fresh salad
are placed on the table so that guests can tuck into its freshness as a palate
cleanser as well as temperature modifier between kebabs. Servings of Tahchin e ghousht, which is a Persian
style rice cake, as well as saffron flavoured rice topped with Persian berries
and piping hot naans complete the
traditional meal.
Whether for a rare experience of Middle
Eastern cuisine in Goa or for the equally rare experience of peace and quiet in
Goa, Café Tehran is an establishment that certainly provides an experience out
of the ordinary.
