Team Café
As the stars are glittering on the red carpet of the biggest film festival in the world, international gynaecologist and aspiring actor Dr Sonal Parihar is busy getting the rest of her wardrobe ready for her Cannes Film Festival debut. More than 12 craftsmen and women from a rural area in Sattari are busy working on her Kunbi saree. The deadline for the outfits is fast approaching as she will leave for Cannes on May 15. She will be wearing the Kunbi saree outfit for the Cannes Film Festival on May 18. The art and technique of weaving and preparing the Kunbi fabric are slowly disappearing in Goa and there are hardly any weavers left. In order to support the traditional craft which is centuries old, Dr Sonal teamed up with the NGO Goemcho Goenkar, which works with Goan artisans to promote the near forgotten traditional occupations. Goemcho Goenkar identified 12 artisans from Sattari and Sanguem to work on the project, which is financially supported by Dr Sonal.
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Shraddha Gauda of Sattari is the lead weaver among the group. Other weavers are Smita Naik, Tara Gawda (Sanguem), Malashree Gawda, Snehal and Sushant Gaonkar (Sanguem). The origin of the Kunbi saree is said to be the Kunbi tribe of Goa. The textile is not just a piece of clothing but a way of life for the Kunbi and Gawda women who have been known to be agriculturalists, for several generations. Historically, Kunbi weaving was more widespread, particularly in areas inhabited by the Kunbi and Gawda tribes. The current resurgence focuses on natural dyes, such as red (representing laterite soil), yellow, black, and maroon in the trademark checkered pattern. Natural elements like iron ore were used for the red colour, but later on the dyes began to be imported, leaving a vacuum in the trade in Goa. Dr Sonal is a special invitee to this year’s Cannes Film Festival.
She will be attending most of the main events and film screenings at Cannes as well as other related film and fashion events held in the vicinity of the main film festival and will adorn the Goan Kunbi saree at one of the Cannes events. According to Dr Sonal wearing the Kunbi saree at an occasion like the Cannes Film Festival, is a matter of great pride. “Like the chikankari of Lucknow, the Kunbi saree of Goa is hundred percent made by hand. It’s the labour of several artisans, their knowledge and skill honed over several years of hard work, the equipment, natural dyes and raw materials perfected over generations. The reason I have chosen both – chikankari of Lucknow and the Kunbi saree of Goa to wear at Cannes, is because I want to showcase the craftsmen and women of Goa and Lucknow together. Goa is not just a tourist destination.
It has a great cultural past and its centuries old knowhow, an amalgamation of both Portuguese and Indian cultures makes it unique in a sense that is difficult for most people to comprehend. I am sending out an international message of unity in diversity and celebrating the rich traditional uniqueness of Goa,” says Dr Sonal. Dr Sonal’s saree which she will wear at one of the events at Cannes is hundred percent handwoven, but has a few embellishments and related work to give it a fusion feel and to meet the fashion requirements of an international event like the Cannes Film Festival, while still ensuring that the traditional weave and kunbi fabric, with its organic colours obtained with the use of natural locally-sourced dyes remain intact. “The saree which will dazzle at Cannes, is not just a piece of fabric or a garment, but an intricate part of centuries-old Goan tradition, culture, soil and soul,” says Dr Sonal. Her wardrobe for Cannes, includes the Goan Kunbi saree, the Maharashtrian Nauvari or the 9-yard sari and chikankari of Lucknow. Besides the three traditional outfits, she will also be seen in fusion wear and other specially made designer outfits.
Franklyn Rodrigues of Goemcho Goenkar says, “We were thrilled when the idea came to us from Dr Sonal Parihar to showcase the Goan Kunbi saree at the Cannes Film Festival. We support Goan artisans and craftsmen through various Goemcho Goenkar programs and what better than Cannes, which is an international platform to showcase Goa. Goemcho Goenkar plans to promote the Kunbi saree and fabric at various fashion events in India and abroad and we are pleased to say that international gynaecologist Dr Sonal Parihar has kindly consented to support our local Goan craftsmen and artisans in this endeavour. Besides the Kunbi fabric, we are also supporting other traditional trades and crafts of Goa, in various cultural festivals and events in the rest of India.” The Goan Kunbi saree is an indigenous, ethnic, sturdy cotton handloom garment, traditionally worn by the Kunbi tribal community in Goa, featuring a distinct red and white or red and black checkered pattern (known as Kapad), a thick, contrasting border that varies from region to region.
As a symbol of Goan heritage, it was historically worn by the indigenous Kunbi and Gauda communities, though it was revived by the late Goan designer Wendell Rodricks. Goan fashion designer Verma D’Mello had also showcased the Kunbi saree at Cannes a few years ago. While it is typically plain in texture and finish, modern designers have used embroidery or embellishments to give it a fusion feel.
